Now that Viking god Odin. He's the one that put the vin in divinity.

He was more grape and spillage than rape and pillage. Viking folklore tells us he had nothing for sustenance except wine. I guess he must have had some serious liver problems but perhaps they had a good rehab unit in Valhalla.

As for the mortals? Well you'd have to be a very rich Norse person to enjoy a nice goblet of wine. But wine they did have.

Traders would bring back wine from the area around the Rhine. As evidence of this, there are artefacts which stem from the Koln area. Pottery jugs from kilns in the Pingsdorf and Badorf area. These are found throughout the viking world, including York. Staves and parts of casks, usually oak, have also been found. These were probably used to transport and store drink, including wine.

Now let's imagine a Viking trader was caught in a time vortex and transported to 2004. He might just ply his trade in the Rheingau and Pfalz wine-producing regions of Germany. And what wine might he bring back from these fertile soils?

Well, he could do a lot worse than stocking up with Lingenfelder Dornfelder 2001. You'll find it in Odins, sorry Oddbins, priced £6.99. The red dornfelder grape was initially bred in 1955 to bolster the colour of paler reds. But then someone discovered it was a worthy wine in itself. I couldn't agree more.

This dornfelder is very smooth and I noticed a little effervescence on the tongue. It's perhaps just a little sweeter than most reds and this is contrasted with a subtle spiciness. Stick your nose in the glass and it's full of the fragrances of rising dough and pungent elderflower. This is an excellent and uniquely different red. So go and get some but leave a bottle or two on the shelf for me.

Our time-traveller has also been commanded to find a suitable sup for Eric Bloodaxe's post-coronation party in the great Viking trading city of Jorvik. He finds a sparkling wine made from riesling grown in the Rheingau.

Sekt "Zum Krug" is parchment dry and superbly light. Apologies for this 'Jilly Gooldenism' but I can taste dusty old books among the lively bubbles of this ethereal wine. I think it stands up really well against some higher-priced Champagnes. It's available by mail-order from The Winery in London for £13.99.

Wine fans with an interest in history may wish to check out Late Night Jorvik - part of the Viking festival. Organisers promise a chance to taste Yorkshire and Scandinavian wine, mead and food as you gain an insight into viking culture. Tickets for either of the two nights, on February 16 and 19, cost £10. These can be booked by ringing 01904 543403.

I might just see you there. Skoal!

Lingenfelder Dornfelder 2001, £6.99 at Oddbins****

Very fine wine from Herr Lingenfelder

Sekt "Zum Krug", £13.99 by post from The Winery in London (tel: 020 7286 6475)****

A feather duster of a sparkling wine

Updated: 09:37 Saturday, February 07, 2004