Want a change from modern York? Come with CHRIS TITLEY on a stroll around Jorvik.

THERE is a problem with exploring Viking York. It's all but invisible. In the intervening millennium since Eric Bloodaxe's death brought an end to the kingdom of Jorvik in 954, almost all tangible trace of it has disappeared.

Some of the fabric of other eras from Roman York onwards still exists above ground. But not Jorvik.

Yet with a little knowledge and imagination, it is possible to look at modern York and envisage it as the bustling Viking city it used to be.

Richard Hall, deputy director of the York Archaeological Trust, kindly agreed to take me on a Viking tour of the city centre. In the short distance from the Minster to Coppergate, we travelled back a thousand years.

1 Deans Park

It wouldn't have been as grand as the present cathedral, but a previous Minster was "the spiritual heart of Viking age York", Richard said. And one of the most likely sites for it is here, to the north of the existing building.

The archbishops were important political figures in the existing Anglo-Saxon community. Viking rulers were astute enough to realise life would be easier if they got along with the churchmen.

Meanwhile, Richard explained, "the archbishops of York didn't want to be subservient to the Archbishop of Canterbury". As long as the North retained its independence, it did not greatly matter to them whether the king was Viking or Anglo Saxon.

2 Petergate

"The Vikings are the people who gave York the skeleton it has today," Richard said. When the Vikings arrived in 866 the outline of the Roman fortress still existed, but the barracks, officers' houses, bath-house and hospital were long gone. Relatively few people lived there.

By the time the Normans conquered in 1066, York was bigger in terms of size, status and population thanks to the Viking flair for commerce.

The Vikings settled along the Roman fortress route, from Bootham Bar through High and Low Petergate, giving the street its name: Peter, after the cathedral, and gate from the Danish "gata", meaning street. From there, they developed the city outwards.

3 Kings Square and Court

Stand in Kings Square and look up at the entrance to Low Petergate. Here is the site of a Roman gatehouse.

"Perhaps the Vikings thought this is somewhere we could use," said Richard. "Maybe in this vicinity there was a Viking palace. We think the name, Kings Court, literally means the site of the king's palace."

If that is true, one of the most romantic of the Viking sagas came to a head here.

Icelander Egill, so the legend has it, had crossed swords with Eric Bloodaxe in the past. Unfortunately for Egill, he was shipwrecked near Spurn Point.

"He made his way to York and, like a mug, presented himself at the royal palace, whereupon Eric and his queen said, 'off with his head'."

A courtier intervened and said it wouldn't do to execute the inmate at night. So the deed was postponed until daylight.

"Egill spent the night composing a wonderful poem praising Eric Bloodaxe as the greatest ruler in the world.

"It was technically breathtaking, with this new poetic invention called rhyme."

After hearing it, the king commuted the sentence, and merely banished Egill from his kingdom.

4 Shambles

This butchers' street dates from Viking times. Tiny Jorvik houses, measuring eight metres long by 4 metres wide, are about three metres down.

They had thatched roofs and big open hearths. Major fires were, not surprisingly, common.

York would have been a smelly city, with rubbish piled high and industries such as leather tanning, Richard explains.

5 Pavement

"Pavement is one of the main streets of the Viking age city," he said. "You have got St Saviourgate, Pavement, through Coppergate and Ousegate." That route takes you to the one river crossing point in Jorvik, Ouse Bridge.

On Pavement is Lloyds Bank. It was below here 32 years ago that archaeologists discovered that parts of Viking York had been brilliantly preserved.

A smaller church would have stood where All Saints is today. Go inside the church and you can see a real Viking relic: part of a 10th century tomb cover, decorated with mythical animals.

6 Coppergate

Meaning the "cup maker's street", it is now internationally famous as home to Jorvik, the recreated Viking city.

When the Vikings came to York the area around Coppergate was deserted. They laid out the streets, and some of the property boundaries that still exist are based on those from Jorvik. Vikings set up homes and industry here.

Coppergate discoveries rewrote the history books. The sheer detail of the finds allowed a whole society to be recreated, and the previous perception of Vikings as little more than a race of warriors was shattered. "If Eric Bloodaxe came back today, he would recognise the patterns of streets, he would recognise the church, he would know the name Coppergate," said Richard.

So there is more Viking York still around than you might think.

Highlights of the Jorvik Viking Festival, February 13-22

The festival is timed to coincide with the Vikings' spring festival Jolablot and is aimed at city residents just as much as tourists. As well as these events, there are chances to go on a real guided walk round Viking York. Many events are free. Check www.vikingjorvik.com or ring 01904 643211

Friday February 13, 12.30pm, Coppergate Square: Festival launch with local children performing an authentic Viking saga

Saturday February 14, Clifford's Tower: Valentine's Day is celebrated with a traditional Viking wedding

Sunday February 15, 10am-4pm, Barley Hall, Coffee Yard, off Stonegate: Viking market and games (until February 20)

Monday February 16: 10am-3pm, ARC, St Saviourgate, Discover Vikings! Handle 1,000 year old items left behind by the Vikings (until February 20)

Saturday February 21, 11am-2pm, King's Staith, York: Longships River Challenge

7.30pm, York Minster: Coronation of Erik Bloodaxe

Genius Of The Vikings

You can tune into a two-part television series to whet your appetite for the festival.

Genius Of The Vikings is on the National Geographic channel tomorrow and next Thursday at 10pm.

The programmes look in detail at the story behind this famous race, with York as a focal point. They delve deep into the strategies behind Viking success, looking at ship design, weapons and armour, and the mentality of men that created devastation wherever they chose to land.

The programme also features Richard Hall talking about the climax of Viking success in England - Jorvik. "It was the first Viking settlement of its size, and an economic first for the world," he tells the programme.

Updated: 09:14 Saturday, February 07, 2004