Melton's, 7 Scarcroft Road, York.

TAKING over the kitchen of a leading restaurant must be like finding yourself in charge of Man U. So many expectations to be met... and you're only as good as your last meal.

Our Alex Ferguson in this case is Jon Coates, the new guy in charge of Melton's in Scarcroft Road, unarguably one of the top dining spots in York.

He has taken over from Adam Holiday, who has been poached by Tesco to work on its Finest foods range.

I'd been to Melton's a few weeks back and been knocked out by Adam's cooking. Jon definitely had a lot to live up to.

Our table was booked for 8.15 on a Saturday night, and we were warned we would be 'upstairs' rather than in the main dining room. We were shown to a small room with just four tables. Large mirrors and windows made it seem larger, and the overall effect was of a private dining room. I liked it, but you could feel a bit 'exposed'. And if you can hear them talking at the next table, remember they can probably hear you.

Our waiter, who was the epitome of professionalism, well-spoken, polite and efficient, swiftly brought us gins and tonics as we studied the menu, which features fish, meat and a good selection of vegetarian options.

We chose parsnip soup with ginger and coriander (£3.90) and goat's cheese gnocchi with herb pesto and pepper and tomato dressing (£6.30). Next, home-cured Yorkshire fillet of pork with glazed apples (£15.90) and rosette of Yorkshire sirloin forestiere with red wine sauce (£18.50).

From the extensive wine list (which cross-refers to items on the menu to help with selection) we chose one of the three house reds on offer, Preference Merlot (£12.50). It was delicious, warm and aromatic, with a lovely smooth finish - excellent for the price.

Equally lovely, if a surprise, were the complimentary appetisers served before our starters: mini teacups of artichoke soup with crispy artichoke shavings, which came with a basket of mixed breads and butter.

Things only got better when our starters came. My parsnip soup was piping hot and its sweet edge was tempered by the tangy ginger and flecks of coriander. A total winner for a winter warmer.

My husband's verdict on his gnocchi was "outstanding". I tried some and had to agree. The goats cheese was almost souffl like, encased in a crisp shell. The tomatoes were bursting with flavour and the drizzle of green herb pesto added a depth of flavour and lovely colour to the dish.

"The best starter I've ever had," said Nick as he cleared his plate.

And greatness continued to the main courses. Curing had turned my pork fillet pink, but given it a tender and salty flavour which you don't expect from this meat. It was served on a pancake of potato; thin layers of potato with a crispy seal. Rounds of butter-soft apple brought a fruity dimension, while mixed greens added earthiness.

Nick enjoyed his beef, which was rich and full of flavour - a good choice after his light starter.

The menu suggests the 'exceptionally hungry' may wish to order extra vegetables. But we found ourselves quite full after two courses. So much so we requested a 'good rest' before contemplating puddings and coffee. Even after this, we still only managed to share a dessert: English Cox apple and caramel tart (£4.40), which was as delicious as it sounds: soft, tangy apples swamped in icky-sticky sauce.

Filter coffee and bottled water (still or sparkling) are complimentary at Melton's (you pay for cappuccino and the like), which is a nice touch.

After a cup of coffee, we settled our £65.80 bill. Considering the quality of the food, the sleekness of the service and that in most restaurants dinner for two these days will set you back around £50, we thought it was worth every penny.

The restaurant also does an 'early diners' deal, where three courses cost £17, two courses £14.50 - with the special menu chosen from the a la carte. This is available from 5.30pm with last orders at 6.15pm and the table needs to be vacated by 7.45pm. This would be perfect for anyone who is planning a trip to the theatre or cinema, or who likes to be back home to catch the soaps.

Melton's, 7 Scarcroft Road, York. Tel: 01904 634341

Maxine visited on Saturday, November 15, 2003

Updated: 17:41 Friday, November 28, 2003