Hello Halkidiki

A TRIP to Greece offers enjoyment and enrichment on many different levels. This is a proud country awash with history in some places and bang-up-to-date in others. It also has beautiful food and drink, architecture and people.

Add to that faultless beaches, the crystal clear Aegean Sea and less than four hours by plane from the UK and you have a dream holiday destination.

Our trip was to Halkidiki, known as Greece's Secret Paradise. Look for the three peninsulas that stick out like long fingers from the Greek mainland and you've got it.

Our first stop was at the beach-fronted Portes Palace hotel, close to the Kassandra peninsula.

From there the major city Thessaloniki is just a short trip away. As with much of Greece, the city is a mix of ultra-modernity and ancient history.

Stroll up through the city streets to reach one of the high viewpoints on its north side. The view out across the buildings, new and old, is stunning.

After that, walk down on to the waterfront, where gleaming bars, cafs and restaurants stretch for more than a mile. This is the perfect place to chat, enjoy a few cool beers and people watch.

Tearing ourselves away we headed back to the Portes Palace for an alfresco lunch. The Greeks eat well and plentifully. This lunch was a beauty. Plates of lightly-fried king prawns, barbecued octopus and delightfully fresh fish were three of the dishes.

Our hosts for the lunch were also our hosts for the trip, the Halkidiki Hotel Association. The association's relaxed and friendly president, Makis Athanassopoulos, and the vice president, Gerasimos Bakogiannis, seemed to be enjoying themselves as much as we were.

The conversation flowed with the excellent Greek white wine. I am not sure when the meal ended. All I recall was lying on a sun lounger then floating blissfully in the Aegean.

There was an intriguing item at the top of the next day's agenda. The Petralona Caves, discovered in bizarre circumstances when thirsty shepherd Filippos Chantzaridis was searching for water, are the source of a major historical dispute.

Mr Chantzaridis's friend, Dr Aris Poulianos, has spent more than 40 years excavating the caves and finding bones, both animal and human.

One skull attracted interest above all the other bones, because, after it was dated, it showed the cave was inhabited 600,000 years ago. This caused a debate which still rages over whether the human race solely originated in Africa.

Dr Poulianos is a character, understandably proud of the cave. The cave itself is amazing. Massive stalactite and stalagmite formations, eerie lighting and the distant drip of water.

After visiting the beautiful Archontariki Manor House, we were off to the remote Jimmy's Guest House in the hills in Taxiarhis. I never found out if Jimmy was Greek, English, or even existed, but he served an amazing lunch. Homemade spicy sausages, melt in your mouth wild boar and a harsh but endearing red white were all on the menu.

Afterwards we headed out into the hills on horses. Whether the beasts' owners didn't trust us or they were worried about the effects of the wine, I don't know, but the horses were led along by a guide, so we didn't go very fast.

I wasn't complaining and neither was the horse, who took every possible opportunity to stop and tuck into the undergrowth.

A sleepy bus ride saw us dropped at our new digs, the Akrathos Hotel.

Again, our accommodation was virtually on the beach. Another float in the Aegean woke me up for the night's entertainment, although I wished it hadn't. Halkidiki is a leading German tourist spot, so the evening had a German slant to it.

While Brits abroad are kept amused by tour reps putting on unfunny "cabaret" shows, Germans like something more highbrow. Dry ice pumped across the stage as a group of reps came out to perform a bizarre costumed opera.

The audience, including me, sat transfixed, although possibly for different reasons. I'd never seen anything like it.

Next morning was also unusual. We were off to the mysterious Mount Athos region, an area populated solely by monks.

Orders from several different countries live in isolated monasteries on the peninsula. Male visitors are allowed, after following a complicated set of rules, but women are banned. What's more, boats carrying women aren't allowed within 500 metres of the shoreline.

That rule is liberal compared to the days when Constantine IX Monomahos was in charge of Mount Athos. He slapped a ban on beardless people and female animals.

Another stunning lunch followed at the beautiful Eagle's Palace hotel. This was the most impressive of the hotels in which we stayed.

The trip was rounded off in style with a stop at the Porto Carras Winery on the Sithonia peninsula.

The winery and attached vineyard is Greece's biggest. We arrived at 10am, so the early hour, and night-before drinks, didn't make the first glass easy. After that every one slipped down nicely. All good stuff, white, red and rose, and thankfully some bread and cheese for ballast.

A look at the inside of the winery is fascinating, huge vats and wooden kegs, lots of chrome and an enticing boozy smell. I'm far from a wine expert but thought the visit excellent. And that's not just the free wine talking.

Fact file

Richard Edwards flew from Gatwick to Halkidiki with Olympic Airlines. Most major tour operators feature Halkidiki with flights from up to ten UK airports.

He travelled to Gatwick via London King's Cross from York with GNER, ring 08457 225225 for tickets or go to www.gner.co.uk

From King's Cross Richard took the Thameslink service to Gatwick. Tickets on 02076206333 or go to www.thameslink.co.uk

Rooms at the Portes Palace Hotel and the Akrathos Hotel can be booked through the Halkidiki Hotel Association's website www. halkidiki-hotels.gr

Alternatively, ring the Portes Palace Hotel on 0030 2373 043 070 or the Akrathos Hotel 0030 2377 071 100 email: akrathos@otenet.gr

Jimmy's Guest House: 0030 2371 094 220

Eagles' Palace Hotel: 0030 2377 031 101

Porto Carras Winery: 0030 2375 071 381 or email: wines@portocarras.com

Archontariki Manor House tel. 0030 2371 021 721 or email: xenonas@archontariki.gr

Updated: 09:24 Saturday, November 15, 2003