Indian Ocean, 37 The Green, Acomb

ASK people where the Indian Ocean is and it is a fair bet they won't be queuing up to catch a plane to Acomb.

The Indian Ocean evokes images of tropical beauty, sun-drenched beaches and palm trees, while Acomb reminds us why we all want to fly out there.

In fact, Acomb is probably the last place you would expect to find a tropical utopia. But those of us who take pride in knowing our curry are better informed.

While I cannot promise sun, sea and sand to anyone who takes a trip to Acomb Green, I can say the Indian Ocean Tandoori Restaurant does aim to provide a taste of the tropics.

They're a prompt bunch. You approach the door and staff are waiting to hold it open. You sit down. There's a tray of papadams and a pickle tray on your table within minutes.

On to the drinks and the Indian Ocean immediately gets a gold star. This may be generalising, but I have been to many Indian restaurants and the wine should usually come with a Government health warning. So it was a very pleasant surprise to see bottles of Jacob's Creek Chardonnay (£6.95) chilling in the fridge.

Papadams tucked away and with girlfriend Kathryn already rubbing her tummy, it was on to the starters and, as you would expect, there is a menu full of choices.

I chose an old favourite of mixed kebabs £3.95, Kathryn went for Chicken Chatt (£2.50). Continuing the trend, both dishes arrived promptly and, although both were pleasant, Kathryn's was by far the better.

The mixed kebab, of shami and sheek, was bland and inoffensive. That's the problem. I like my food to have a kick to it. This was weak.

The Chicken Chatt, however, was excellent. Spicy, flooded with a tangy tomato sauce and wrapped in pastry - with a side salad accompaniment - it was chunky and it had a resonance which made it the perfect start.

The chicken was well-cooked, in manageable strips and was tender when fork met meat. The meal was also large. So large in fact that I initially thought it was Kathryn's main course.

Now curry has never been known for its aesthetic beauty. Even the most delicious dishes and spices have a consistency and colour that would normally see it shunned in polite society.

But taste is the key. And, when it comes to main courses, in many respects the Indian Ocean does not disappoint.

Kathryn went to the sizeable specials menu and selected Tandoori Butter Chicken (£7.95) with egg pilau rice (£2.30) and a garlic naan (£2.20).

I was a little more traditional and chose Lamb Rogan Josh (£5.95), with mushroom pilau rice (£2.30) and a stuffed paratha (£2.20).

A more unusual dish, the Tandoori Butter Chicken consisted of strips of chicken coated in a tandoori sauce, which was laced with butter.

Kathryn reported it to be impressive but creamy and extremely rich - a little too much for her taste after several mouthfuls.

The chicken was cut into manageable strips and was moist. Her rice was soft and packed with fried egg and peas. Her garlic naan was, surprisingly, a little lacking in garlic but was fluffy and light - important given the weighty size of the main dish.

My main course was a complete contrast. Huge lumps of lamb nestled with plump juicy tomatoes and a fusion of herbs to make a splendid combination. The meat was, on occasion, a little tough but this did not detract too much from the overall quality.

The rice, which was full of button mushrooms and also appeared to have been cooked in a mushroom stock, was richer than the egg pilau but of the same quality. The stuffed paratha - a fried bread stuffed with vegetables - was a delight, if slightly hard and a little too greasy.

After that taste sensation, dessert was the last thing on our minds. If you are going to make a meal of it at the Indian Ocean, it's probably best to save a little space in the stomach beforehand.

So overall, a worthy night out. The food was reasonable, the service excellent and the ambience warm and welcoming - and at £36.30 it didn't hit the wallet too hard. A hint of paradise isn't so far away after all.

Steve and Kathryn visited the Indian Ocean on September 17.

Indian Ocean, 37 The Green, Acomb, (01904) 789816

Food: reasonable

Service: superb

Value: good

Ambience: welcoming

Disabled facilities: Yes

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or e-mail features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 08:51 Saturday, November 08, 2003