Mason's Bistro Bar, 13 Fossgate, York.

CALL me ignorant, but I'd never heard of rouille and aioli before. Neither, it seemed, had our waitress. She was very friendly and attentive, but when we asked her what these mysterious accompaniments that came with the fish soup were, she had to go off and ask the boss.

It only took a couple of seconds, and then she was back. Rouille is a spicy mayonnaise, she told me; aioli a garlic mayonnaise.

Sounded interesting. I promptly opted for the fish soup with aioli and rouille as my starter. Lili's eyes lit on the smoked duck breast and refused to budge. So duck it was for her.

We were at Mason's Bistro Bar, the smart eatery that has replaced the Blue Minelle on Fossgate. The owner is Norma Hall, who previously managed the Blue Minelle.

Mason's has already established itself as a good place for lunch. It's handily situated at the top end of Fossgate a stone's throw from the city centre; the menu boards in the window, scattered newspapers and rustic tables invite you inside, and there are some great soups on offer.

But with Lili working in Sheffield, lunch dates are out. So we decided to check out how Mason's stacks up when it comes to a more substantial evening meal instead.

It was 7.30pm on a Saturday evening when we turned up, having previously booked. Two tables in the restaurant were occupied, by sophisticated-looking couples of mature years. Light jazz piano music played in the background.

Mason's has effortlessly captured a rustic Mediterranean style. Solid wooden tables, all different in a continental country kitchen sort of way and all with plenty of room to stretch your elbows, are scattered over a wooden floor. Potted plants, dim lighting, and that jazz complete the effect.

The evening menu is interestingly imaginative - pumpkin ravioli, or beef casserole with anchovies and thyme and a horseradish creme fraiche. And it's not overly-expensive: typical main courses weigh in at from £10.50 to £12.50.

We settled in at our roomy table and I ordered a large glass of sauvignon blanc (£4), Lili a freshly squeezed orange juice (£1.90) while we pondered our choices. The wine was a little sweet for my taste, but clean and refreshing. Lili's juice was delicious. In addition to starters, I chose the monkfish wrapped in pancetta (£12.50) for my main course, while Lily chose the crab and prawn thermidor (also £12.50). Then we sat back and relaxed.

It's a relaxing place, Mason's: great for unwinding. A group of six or eight younger people came in as we sat there, and asked if they could stay just for a drink. Of course, said the host - and they settled around a large table with a couple of bottles of cold champagne, chatting and laughing without being rowdy.

My fish soup, when it came, was excellent. It had a heavy, almost powdery consistency, and a deeply satisfying flavour and texture. But the real knockout was the aioli. It came in little dip bowls with chunks of crusty Mediterranean bread and was zesty and flavourful in a subtle kind of way.

Lili was also hugely impressed with her duck, which came in thin, exquisitely-flavoured strips. Some of the best duck she'd ever had, she said - which, coming from someone who spent most of her childhood in Beijing (Peking), a city renowned for its duck, is high praise.

Our main courses were also very good indeed. My monkfish was tender and beautifully cooked, although perhaps not quite salty enough for my taste. This was made up for, however, by the scrumptious bacon wrapping (that pancetta) the fish came in: a delicious contrast of tastes and textures. The salad accompanying it included wonderful strips of sweet red pepper that were bursting with flavour, as well as rocket and iceberg lettuce, cucumber and some glorious fat olives, all sprinkled with a piquant vinaigrette.

Lili was slightly less pleased with her crab and prawn thermidor, having expected a dish of crab claws and prawns rather than the tasty stew topped with crumble she received. She enjoyed it nevertheless, and readily accepted it was her mistake in not realising what the dish involved, rather than the restaurant's.

Lili passed on dessert. From the small but well-formed menu I chose the raspberry brulee tart, at £3.50. It was light and delicious.

With coffee to finish for me, the bill - including drinks - came to about £46.

For a restaurant of this quality, that's not bad value. It seemed a shame that, by the time we finished our meals, we were the only diners left. But I have a feeling that, as its reputation spreads, business might well pick up. Mason's Bistro Bar is an impressive addition to York's list of quality restaurants, and well worth considering for a special, intimate meal that won't leave you needing to take out a second mortgage.

Food: excellent

Service: friendly

Value: reasonable

Ambience: sophisticated

Disabled facilities: No

Mason's Bistro Bar, 13 Fossgate, York. Tel: 01904 611919.

Steve and Lili visited Mason's Bistro Bar on October 4.

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or e-mail features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 16:07 Friday, October 31, 2003