The long warm spell let late-comers off the hook. But colder weather is forecast so GINA PARKINSON recommends sorting out the lawn now.

THE forecast is for colder weather soon, so this weekend should be a good time for sorting out the lawn, especially if like me you have put the job off.

Our poor grass has suffered from the recent building work we have done on the house, but it is tough stuff and is recovering remarkably quickly. Unfortunately so have the weeds and thistles and dandelions are pushing through the turf.

Other guest appearances include a thick crop of Cerinthe and two or three Nicotiana sylvestris, neither of which have been planted in the garden for at least two years. Soil disturbance must have exposed the dormant seeds.

Autumn lawn care includes regular mowing while the weather stays reasonable and the grass continues to grow, although the time between mowing will gradually increase and the blades need to be set higher than for summer cutting.

Scarifying, spiking and top dressing should also be done, especially on lawns that are growing poorly or are badly drained. Although these jobs are usually recommended for early September, the warm weather means late comers can still get the jobs done.

Scarifying is done in autumn to remove debris and to prevent the build up a thatch. Thatch is a layer of fibrous material, which if it becomes too deep, prevents proper drainage of rain. It also inhibits the thickening of grass, which usually happens in September and October.

A spring tine or garden rake is all that is needed for the job but allow a good amount of time, especially if the lawn is large. Pull the rake towards you applying downward pressure as you do so. This will loosen and lift a surprising amount of dead matter, moss and other debris and will stimulate the production of side shoots and runners on the remaining grass.

The next job is spiking or aerating and is carried out to break up impacted areas and to allow water and air to the roots of the grass.

Use a garden fork and drive it vertically into the lawn to a depth of about 10cm. Rock the fork gently back and forth and then pull it out vertically. Do this across the lawn leaving about 15cm between each line of holes.

If the lawn is on a heavy soil and is badly impacted, a hollow-tine fork can be used. This takes out a core of earth and wide channels are created; but it shouldn't be done more than every three years. Garden fork spiking can be carried out annually.

Top dressing is the application of material to the surface of the lawn. Its purpose is to fill any small hollows that have developed over the summer and to gradually build up a good quality layer of soil for the turf. Top dressing will also improve sandy and clay soils.

The mixture is made up of a combination of peat or peat-free substitute, good garden soil and lime-free sand. The ratio of one to another depends on the type of soil the lawn is on, with more sand added for heavy soil and more loam and peat/peat substitute added for sandy soil.

Once the top dressing is mixed, put small heaps of it all over the lawn and spread evenly over the area with the flat back of a garden rake. It is important the dressing goes down to soil level and isn't left smothering the blades of grass. After spreading, lightly brush over the surface to clear any remaining material from the turf.

NB. If you have a large lawn and are fearing weeks of back breaking work, fear not. Check the area and choose the parts that are showing signs of particular wear and tear. These might be where children have been playing during the summer or routes to a gate or shed; concentrate on these rather than attempting the whole lawn.

Updated: 09:14 Saturday, October 18, 2003