Farne away

THERE are a couple of forgotten counties in this country, both beautiful. One is Shropshire, the other Northumberland. Both have amazing scenery, great beer, friendly people, and, for some reason, not that many visitors.

Maybe it's because they haven't become trendy yet, and long may that continue.

Haggerston Castle is tucked away off the A1 in Northumberland, just south of Berwick-upon-Tweed. It is perfectly placed for getting about the region.

Set in green fields with a lake full of swans in the middle, this site squeezes in hundreds of caravans and chalets and all the facilities needed to help a family holiday go smoothly.

Our luxury four-berth caravan was spot on. Plenty of room, all mod cons and a gleaming bathroom including a power shower.

Northumberland can be bitterly cold all year round, thanks to the biting wind coming off the North Sea. Many of the locals are left with a wind-induced tan. Luckily for us, we visited during an early autumn heatwave. As Northumberland is famous for its sunsets, we headed up to Berwick-upon-Tweed to take it in.

This walled town sits right on the coast and has a relaxed but confident feel. The walls are divided into various bastions, with those to the south of town giving stunning sea views. Walking along we came across a surprise treat, as the council has set up an LS Lowry trail in Berwick. The artist was a big fan and visited regularly, seeking inspiration.

Further along is a house, adorned with a stone lion, which Lowry is said to have thought about buying. By this house, the walls become ramparts, rebuilt between 1588 and 1570.

From there, when the tide is out, all kinds of birds can see seen over the estuary. We spotted redshank, oystercatcher and heron, as well as swans swimming on the sea.

By now the sun was coming down fast, glinting off the water. All that spoilt the experience was the amount of dog dirt. By the time we got to the 18th century guard house, there seemed to be more muck than grass. Take note, Berwick Borough Council.

The sun gone, we headed back to the park for a few beers - and there are plenty of bars to choose from. In ours, the club singer was proudly belting out songs while the packed pub clapped along. A classic, friendly, down-to-earth scene.

Next morning, a walk around the park was needed to clear the cobwebs. The place is a good size, very green and appears to care about nature. Trees have identification plaques and areas are designed for certain birds.

From there we headed down the coast to the seaside town of Seahouses. In a happy timewarp, Seahouses has gleaming whitewashed houses peering out over spotless beaches and a clean-looking North Sea.

It's easy to imagine Victorian families heading out for a bracing dip, using segregated sections of sea with bathing costumes buttoned up to the neck.

Walk down the beach for great views of Bamburgh and its castle. If kite flying appeals, there is no shortage of wind. Those made hungry by all that fresh air can nip back into the town for fish and chips.

After the stroll we tried to get on a boat to go to the Farne Islands, but had missed the last sailing. We booked for the next morning and woke to find another stunning sunny day.

Seventy-five year old seadog Billy Shiel has been taking tours out to and around the Farne Islands for 60 years, and has been awarded an MBE for his efforts. His boat, The Glad Tidings, was due to sail at 10am sharp. We got there at 10.01am.

"Never mind, there's always a Mr and Mrs Last," said Billy's jovial Geordie assistant.

Huge numbers of seabirds visit the Farne Islands every year to breed. We were out of season, but still saw guillemot, gannet, kittiwake, shag, cormorant, and many more.

Dolphins, porpoises and even minke whales have all been sighted, while the grey seal colony is always entertaining. The trip was fantastic and is a must for anyone visiting Northumberland.

Back on dry land, there was one more special stop to make. As a native north-easterner, I was ashamed never to have visited Hadrian's Wall.

The drive through the countryside from Seahouses was exquisite, the wall well worth the effort.

Much of the wall runs alongside the B6318, so there are plenty of places to stop. We made our first call at the ruined temple of Mithras, then drove the short distance to the Housestead Roman Fort, the best preserved fort of its type in the country.

Sitting near the wall is the perfect place to enjoy the view of England's northernmost country. Hadrian built his wall to keep out raiding parties from what is now Scotland; then, as now, the Scots were a lively, feisty people.

The same goes for their neighbours in the North-East. The locals' approach to life, and the region's stunning scenery, ensures that a trip to Northumberland can't fail to be a winner.

Updated: 09:07 Saturday, October 18, 2003