Kapadokya, George Hudson Street, York

IF you wish to send your tastebuds on a round-the-world trip, you would be well served by a trek around York's restaurants.

From Japanese to Spanish, Italian to Indian, Greek to Mexican, there is a world out there on a plate. And that dish has just become bigger with the opening of a Turkish restaurant, Kapadokya, in George Hudson Street.

A bright yellow frontage gives it a commanding presence on this busy city thoroughfare. It's fairly large and felt almost empty when my mother and I turned up on a Tuesday evening when there were just another couple of tables occupied.

But by the time we were tucking into a shared starter of humus and quaffing a bottle of Turkish wine, the place was filling up.

When our main meals arrived, the restaurant was three-quarters full with an array of guests including three generations of one family, mum, dad, granddad and three children under ten (who were each given lollipops); a young couple with a sleeping baby in a pram; a group of 30-something men, a bunch of friends, one of whom was in a wheelchair (there is full disabled access and a loo) as well as a handful of couples. Clearly a restaurant for all people.

A look at the menu confirms that even further. Kapadokya hails itself as a Turkish Barbecue Restaurant, offering traditional open charcoal cooking, and the menu features a wide choice of grills and kebabs. However, it also offers a selection of vegetarian dishes including kebabs and stews and five fish dishes, again either from the barbecue or slow-cooked in the oven.

There's a choice of eight hot starters and 13 cold starters which ooze Eastern promise: Borek, filo pastry filled with feta cheese, eggs and parsley; Sucuk, a char-grilled Turkish sausage; Dolma, vine leaves stuffed with rice, onion, pine kernels, raisins and herbs, with prices averaging around £3.

We weren't disappointed with our humus which came on a large saucer with fingers of carrot and cucumber for dipping and a large basket of white, fluffy bread, with a sesame seed crust - all made on the premises.

It may be hard to get excited about humus and bread but this was top-notch stuff. The humus was thick and grainy with a satisfying garlicky flavour and the bread was so good we soon polished off the whole generous basket. At just £2.95 it was brilliant value and we were glad we hadn't ordered a starter each as this had been adequate.

Choosing our main courses was tough because of the sheer choice: seven kebabs and mixed grills and seven chef's specials, not to mention the veggie and fish options and a selection of side orders. There is also a set menu offering a cold starter, hot starter, main course, dessert and tea or coffee for an amazing £17.50.

Mum eventually settled for the mixed kebab (£9.95) featuring char-grilled lamb and chicken shish as well as lamb chops with rice and salad. I considered one of the several lamb casserole dishes but followed the waiter's suggestion to try the house special Kapadokya (£9.95), cubes of chicken with almonds, apricots, raisins, cinnamon, honey and lemon, served with rice. Apparently, it is based on a 500-year-old recipe for Sultans.

There was a bit of a lapse before these dishes arrived, but we didn't mind as it allowed us time to savour our wine. We put our initial reservations aside and ordered a bottle of Turkish white, Villa Doluca, (£11.50). This was a very agreeable crisp, dry wine which could stand its own against an equivalent French, Italian or New World offering.

Our meals looked fantastic when they arrived - Mum's meats set against a bed of perfectly-cooked white rice and a colourful salad, my dish full of autumn shades and dusted in a light powder of cinnamon.

Delicious, was Mum's verdict on her kebab. The meats were tender and tasty; the lamb melting in the mouth. Yummy was my judgement on my dish fit for a Turkish king. The chicken and fruits, combined with honey and lemon, were sweet without being cloying, and struck the exact balance between tangy and savoury. Thoroughly recommended.

Again, the portions were generous and we were unable to try puddings, of which there were just four; three traditional Turkish deserts and ice cream, priced around £3 each.

Service was with a smile and our waiters took time to talk us through the menu and chat to us about our lives and even our own holidays to Turkey.

Kapadokya is a welcome addition to the restaurant scene in York and with its combination of tasty, affordable, food, relaxed and attentive staff, pleasant decor and central location it will be a great success. Best book that table now.

Kapadokya, 24 George Hudson Street, York. Tel: 01904 622 500.

Maxine visited on Tuesday, September 16, 2003.

Updated: 17:32 Friday, October 03, 2003