RACHEL LACY and her daughter Carol visit a little-known corner of Northumberland.

TYNEMOUTH is not a day out for the fainthearted. More than an hour away by train and Metro and, with plenty of steps and some steep walks, it makes for a testing trip. But it is certainly worth it if you have the stamina.

Travelling has to be part of the fun, and so my ten-year-old daughter Carol kept occupied on the northbound GNER train journey by keeping a tally of the wildlife we saw through the window, which included a vixen with three small cubs.

We travelled from Newcastle to Tynemouth by Metro train. On emerging from the station, the priory and castle ruins stood in front of us, with the North Sea on our left and the Tyne estuary between two piers on our right.

The castle and priory stand on a headland jutting out into the sea, and visitors should be warned that it can a bit fresh in bad weather. It is worth a visit, however, for the chapel alone, with its stained glass windows and painted ceiling; and on a good day there's a great view from the war-time gun batteries facing out to sea.

Below the priory is King Edward's Bay - another test of stamina, with the only way in and out via steps, and lots of them. But the rewards are kittiwakes, cormorants, redshanks, oyster catchers, rock pools and maybe even a glimpse of a young seal. Swimming is restricted, with lifeguards in summer and a flag system, and that's assuming the water temperature doesn't put you off.

We went instead via a series of slopes to Longsands, acres of uncluttered and very clean sands. We tried swimming but it involved a lot of screaming and running in and out, before even our knees were wet. But there were very few witnesses.

We finished our day out with a fascinating visit to the Blue Reef Aquarium, a former Sea Life Centre, which for this year has a special exhibition called Claws - Invasion of the Crustaceans.

One of the startling new creatures is an American king crab, measuring four feet across and still growing. There are also octopuses, including a big male that sits looking malevolently at passers-by, and a dogfish that, on our visit, was only an hour or so old.

Factfile

Castle and Priory (English Heritage)

Disabled access: Access to castle gatehouse and grounds: most parts accessed on firm, level path except gun battery and within gatehouse. Wheelchair-pusher advised. Disabled parking is within the grounds via the gatehouse (no toilets, disabled or otherwise).

Times: 10am-6pm in summer, check website for winter times.

Admission: Adults £2.50, children £1.30, concessions £1.90, EH Members free, family ticket £6.30.

Telephone: (0191) 257 1090.

Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk

Blue Reef Aquarium

Disabled access: Yes.

Times: From 10am.

Admission: Adults £4.95, children £3.25, OAP/Student £4.25, family (two adults and up to three children) £15.95. Worth checking website for vouchers.

Telephone: (0191) 258 1031.

Website: www.bluereefaquarium.com/section_tynemouth.asp

GNER

Telephone: 08457 225 225 (8am-10pm daily).

Website: www.gner.co.uk

Metro

Telephone: 0870 608 2 608.

Website: www.tyneandwearmetro.co.uk

Tourist Information Centre

Telephone: 0191 277 8000.

Updated: 16:26 Friday, June 20, 2003