SEA, sun, sand and sangria - I knew there must be more to Mallorca than first met my eye during a fortnight-long party in Magaluf two years ago.

Something that inspires the likes of Richard Branson and Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones to return to the largest of the Baleric Isles year after year.

And within the mountainous countryside and idyllic tranquillity of West coast villages of Deia and Valldemossa, nestled among vibrant orange, lemon, almond trees and olive groves, I found it.

We arrived at Palma, the island's capital, during the last few days of April and piled into a minibus which began to climb the winding, mountainous roads.

Our first stop, and base, was the picturesque village of Deia, comprising

a scattering of old houses clinging to a hillside nourished by luscious green trees and a wealth of fresh pink and red flowers.

The village is flanked by the twisted trunks of ancient olive trees and dominated by the romantic-style village church.

Poet Robert Graves, author of I, Claudius, lived in Deia, and is buried in the village graveyard. To this day, the village remains a favourite of painters and artists.

We didn't have time to walk the two kilometres to the sea, but from the balcony of my room in the excellent hotel Es Moli, I sat and marvelled at the views of the village and coastline.

After a tour through the narrow cobbled village streets, led by friendly guide Pepe, a swim in the heated outdoor pool and a magnificent six-course meal washed down with good Majorcan red wine, we retired to our balconies to view Deia by night.

It was a stunning sight - the village was bathed in moonlight and surrounded by swirling clouds, while the haunting bells of the village church occasionally chimed.

Mallorca enjoys a Mediterranean climate of hot summers and mild winters. April, May and June can be ideal, while July and August can be incredible hot; some hotels are cheaper then because of the intense heat.

The next day we set off in the minibus for Valldemossa, where Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones own a lavish villa. This is a popular tourist destination with a tantalising Mediterranean feel. Sun blushed cobbled streets and traditional quaint shops, restaurants and cafes lead towards the Carthusian Monastery with its green-tiled belfy.

The monastery, where composer and pianist Frederic Chopin spent the winter of 1838-1839, hosts frescoes by Miguel Bayeu, Goya's brother-in-law.

A 17th century monk's pharmacy, prior's cell and beautiful gardens, where summer concerts are held, with famous pianists playing Chopin's works, are all worth a visit.

Wandering through the steep and slippery streets provides an authentic view of Mallorca, although it is advisable not to walk far in high heels. Besides King Sancho's Palace and the House of Santa Catalina Thomas, there are many beautiful houses, decorated with hanging baskets that burst with fresh flowers.

Visitors can buy traditional Mallorcan liquors, olives, preserves, wines and crafts throughout Valldemosa, and should not leave the island without trying the local almond cakes.

Many liquors can be sampled before buying, including heirbas, an aniseed flavoured favourite.

The cliff-side road between Deia and Valldemossa, offers stunning views of the Mallorcan coastline, including Na Foradada, the rock weathered by wind and wave.

The mountains with their twisting paths provide a haven for walkers, although we weren't that adventurous. Armed with a map and hire car, visitors could easily see the best Mallorca has to offer.

Those yearning for the buzz of a city should try Palma, alive with bustling shops, cafes and bars. A gothic cathedral stands proudly, featuring windows by the Spanish architect Gaudi. Various museums, Bellver Castle and attractions such as La Rambla, a colourful walk with flower stalls, are enough to keep the visitor busy.

FACT FILE

Charlotte travelled with Magic Of Spain using the scheduled services of GB Airways, a British Airways franchisee running regular flights from Gatwick to Palma.

A seven-night stay at the four-star Es Moli, with Magic of Spain, costs from £735 per person. Price includes flights, private transfer and bed and breakfast.

A seven-night stay at Hotel Monnaber Nou costs from £595 per person.

A seven-night stay at Hotel Rural Sa Bassa Rotja costs from £675 per person.

Above prices include flights, car hire and bed and breakfast.

All 29 hotels can be viewed and booked online at www.reisdemallorca.com

Charlotte travelled to London King's Cross from York by rail with GNER. For times and prices ring 08457 225225 or go to www.gner.co.uk

Es Moli, four-star hotel owned by independent association Reis de Mallorca "Kings of Mallorca".

Updated: 12:52 Saturday, May 31, 2003