ENGLAND has always been proud of its beers. But even the age-old arguments of lager or bitter and cider or stout pale into insignificance when you look at the rivalries between two of the different types of beer in Germany.

Germany is famed for its beer drinking, with the Munich Beer Festival known around the world.

However, while the Bavarian beers may take centre stage, in the far west of the country the rivalry over the different beers is intense.

On a recent trip to Germany, Bar Talk discovered that the cities of Cologne and Dusseldorf, just a few miles apart, are separated by the huge gulf that is their tastes in beer. Both claim their home brew is better than their neighbour's effort.

In Cologne, a cool, crisp Klsch will come your way if you ask for a beer, while in Dusseldorf the dark and malt Altbier is the local brew. The chance of getting served an Altbier in Cologne is unlikely and vice-versa.

Altbier derives its name from the fact it is brewed in the traditional way, with brewers - of which there are seven local breweries in Dusseldorf - sticking with the 'alt' (German for old) methods.

So steeped is the city in brewing history that the locals even proudly boast their first law in the 16th century concerned beer - ensuring brewers stuck to four main ingredients (malt, hops, yeast and water).

In looks Al is very much like a bitter or a real ale, but sweeter and lighter - and it is easy to enjoy a decent session without that bloated feeling of the English beers. It is helped by the fact that the Germans only serve in 200ml, 300ml and 400ml measures; however, the smaller the glass the quicker it goes down.

And in Dusseldorf's Altstadt (old town) - universally known as the oldest bar in the world because of the 260 pubs and restaurants packed into 1.5km - you can enjoy beer after beer brought to you with nothing to pay until you have finished at each individual pub.

Further up the river Rhine, Klsch is the speciality in Cologne. Served in tall thin glasses to prevent the beer losing its flavour by going flat, it is very much the lager equivalent.

Order a Klsch is like turning on a tap - once you order you first, like water out of a tap, the beer will keep coming your way until you say stop, with bar staff dedicated to keeping your glass full.

Klsch is also difficult to buy in bottles or cans - although it is possible - so if you want a take-out, you have to buy a 'Little Peter': a ten, 15 or 20 litre keg who can take away and tap yourself... all very civilised.

As a bitter drinkers normally, Bar Talk found the Altbier more to our liking. However, Klsch is unlike the more traditional lagers found here because it is less gassy and still refreshing. So whatever your preference, these German beers are well worth a try. Anfeuerungen!

CLOSER to home, and they're making a splash at the Roman Bath this week. Work has been completed on improving the setting for the original Roman bath in the basement, which gives the St Sampson's Square boozer its name.

Landlord Terry Osborne tells us that the new look has cost £10,000 of pub owner Liam Fagan's brass and has been designed by York Roman tour host Keith Mulhearne.

The basement bath has new lighting, murals and information and will be re-christened Eboracum at an invite-only bash this Tuesday.

Everyone else can have a look from Wednesday onwards. It costs £2 per adult, and children are free.

THE latest York pub to undergo a major refit is Thomas's Hotel on Museum Street. It closes tonight and will reopen in about three weeks with a vastly different interior.

Updated: 09:38 Saturday, May 17, 2003