STEVE CARROLL 'spices' up his life at the Tandoori Night...

IF variety is the spice of life, then that 'spice' is a curry at the Tandoori Night.

As my flatmate Matt and I were shown to our table in the traditional-looking restaurant in Bootham, York, the extensive menu was handed to us by a member of the friendly waiting team.

We began our meal in the traditional way - with a selection of popadams and a pickle tray (50p each plus £1 for the pickle tray). These were large and crisp and the pickle tray provided mint, onion or spiced dips.

The menu offered a large range of starters and while I tackled a mixed kebab (£3), Matt chose the onion bhaji (£1.95).

Matt was extremely complimentary about his starter, judging the two bhaji's to be crisp and of a good consistency.

A word of warning to prospective diners: if you are going to eat here you had better leave plenty of space - the meals are more than generous.

As the starters arrived and I weighed up the sheer size of the mixed shami and sheek kebab, I began to have some reservations about managing the main course ahead.

The shami kebab was an interesting alternative to the sheek, its fishcake-like consistency and delicate spicing contrasting with the firmer and sharper taste of its sheek sibling. Both complimented each other well.

The Tandoori Night menu offers all the traditional Indian curries and Matt chose a chicken biryani (£5.75) with a stuffed paratha (£2) on the side.

But the real magic of the restaurant can be found in its highly-recommended special dishes. These cost a bit more but are definitely worth considering.

I went for the Tandoori Night Special (£7.50) - a mix of Balti chicken and meat tikka, cooked with prawns. A garlic naan (£1.75) and mushroom pilau rice (£2.25) were my side dishes.

The biryani, cooked with pilau rice and served with a vegetable curry, was a little hotter than you would expect from a usually mild dish, but that extra spice solicited no complaints.

The rice was splendidly cooked and avoided the tacky consistency that can sometimes occur when it has spent a little too long in the pan.

The chicken was lean and tender and the vegetable curry, which provided the unexpected spice, was delicious - with the vegetables firm and crunchy to the taste.

I have to reveal that the Tandoori Night special was one of the finest curries I have ever tasted.

The menu describes the balti sauce as "unique" and, cooked together with the mushrooms and prawns, it was certainly a very special dish.

The meat, a collection of chicken, lamb and beef, was well cooked and tender. The variety of meats provided different textures and a welcome new taste with each bite.

I am a big fan of prawns and, in this dish, they were well cooked, yet soft, and plentiful in supply.

The rice again lived up to the standard and was well spiced with a heavy mixture of soft, button mushrooms and peas.

Matt's stuffed paratha, a lightly-fried bread full of vegetables, broke easily and was of a fluffy texture.

My garlic naan was also of a light texture and enjoyed a scent of garlic rather than an overbearing taste.

This sumptuous meal was washed down with pints of Kingfisher and, weighing in at about £48.50, didn't hit the pocket too hard.

Curry lovers are spoilt for choice in York with the city playing host to a number of spectacular Indian restaurants.

Following this meal, it's no understatement to reveal that the Tandoori Night is right up there with the best of them.

Food: excellent

Service: friendly

Value: very good

Ambience: good

Disabled facilities: No

Tandoori Night, 21-23 Bootham, York. Telephone (01904) 613366.

Steve and Matt visited on March 19.

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or e-mail features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 08:42 Saturday, May 03, 2003