It's better late than never for Rosslyn Snow, who enters a familiar-looking pub she had never previously felt moved to visit.

I HAVE walked, driven and even jogged past the Fox And Roman pub on Tadcaster Road on many occasions since moving to York and not once have I felt the urge to step inside.

There was something intangible about the large building close to Knavesmire that just made me want to keep on walking, driving or jogging on by.

But the moment I stepped inside its doors on a mild Monday night, I knew that I was going to enjoy the experience after all. Better two years late than never.

Greeted with a smile, Andrew and I were told that we should take any table, in smoking or non-smoking, and order food at the bar.

First we ordered a pint of Tetley bitter and a dry white wine and I was shown a selection of suitable wines to choose from.

Then we were given the obligatory numbered wooden spoon with our table number on it and we settled down to peruse the menu.

Starters included soup, which that night was Tuscan bean, crab and salmon fishcakes and prawn cocktail, with prices ranging from £2.75 to £4.95.

Main meals such as pies, pasta, steaks and fish were on the menu, with specials including baked cod loin with lime, parsley and cream and seafood salad.

Main meal prices ranged from £5.75 to £12.75.

After some consideration, Andrew chose for his starter the crispy bacon and warm black pudding salad, costing £3.95. I went for the creamy wild mushrooms at £3.75.

The well-presented meals quickly arrived and we tucked in. Andrew said his salad, which included a generous helping of charlotte potatoes, was filling and tasty. He especially liked the black pudding which he hoped had been purchased locally so he could buy some, but unfortunately it had not.

My mushrooms were fragrant and the creamy paprika sauce allowed the mushroom flavour to take centre stage. The lightly toasted ciabbatta bread was fresh and the accompanying salad leaves helped keep the dish light.

Once our plates were cleared our main meals arrived soon after. Andrew went for the baked sea bass with lemon and parsley butter (£9.95) and I chose the pork, apple and Somerset cider sausages with cheddar mash (£5.95).

The sausages were tangy and unusual, slightly overdone at one end - which I like in a sausage - and tasty.

The cheddar mash had no overtly cheesy taste but was rich and creamy and the dish was served with a thick onion gravy, dotted with baby onions.

It was a warming hearty meal, one that I nearly finished before admitting defeat. My one complaint concerned the overcooked vegetables. Melt in the mouth broccoli is not a favourite of mine.

Andrew was impressed with his fish which he said was well cooked and the subtle lemon and parsley butter did not take anything away from the fish flavour. However, he was also unimpressed with the soggy vegetables and with hindsight he would not have chosen a starter and a main which included charlotte potatoes, tasty as they were.

Despite feeling full we were tempted by the dessert board which included profiteroles, brownies and banana brulee.

Andrew chose the baked lemon cheesecake with ice cream (£3.45) and I was drawn to the caramel apple granny (£3.45), which I had never heard of but was told by our friendly waiter was apple pie with custard inside and a caramel layer on top. I chose ice-cream with it and a coffee (£1.25).

The dishes arrived quickly and were gone almost as fast. My apple granny was succulent, the caramel flavour was not overpowering and was balanced beautifully by the creamy custard filling.

Andrew said his cheesecake was not too tangy but nice and lemony, and the ice-cream was a delicious accompaniment. He said it was light enough to eat in addition to a starter and main.

At just over £42, including two drinks each, it was not a cheap pub meal but was reasonable considering the restaurant-like atmosphere and good service we received.

The Fox And Roman, Tadcaster Road, York. Tel: 01904 771041

Rosslyn Snow visited the Fox And Roman on Monday, April 7

Updated: 09:11 Saturday, April 19, 2003