Sun and souks

FANCY a trip to a Muslim country shortly after the US and UK started Gulf War 2? Yes please. I must admit to feeling a few slight twinges of nerves as I prepared to head off to Morocco, but brushed them off as irrational.

After all, we're all human beings and I was confident North African Muslim frustrations over the war wouldn't be taken out on a group of journalists.

Perhaps perversely, I was intrigued to see if there was any negative reaction and planned to try to deal with it by debating, then walking away if necessary. There was no need for any worries. The welcome offered as we reached the beautiful city of Marrakech was exceptional.

The locals were a bit in our faces, but it had nothing to do with politics. More the local tradition of trying to sell goods or services to tourists, such as hiring themselves out as guides.

The locals are incredibly persistent, though most will get the message if you are firm enough. If you do need a guide then you're spoilt for choice. For a few dirhams (there are about 15 to the pound) you get someone who knows the city's nooks and crannies inside out, and by hiring a guide all the other would-be tour givers leave you alone.

Our tour of the city began with a trip to the Menara Gardens, a public park containing a reservoir and a huge olive grove, popular with locals for weekend picnics.

The 9.30am temperature in late March was a gorgeous 23 Celsius (about 76 Fahrenheit).

On the banks of the reservoir, our jovial guide Abdullah produced a slice of bread and chucked huge hunks into the water. In seconds, the lake's surface was a mass of fat koi carp, all trying to get a few crumbs. They must be some of the best fed fish in North Africa, in there to keep the water clean. They make a bizarre sight, like a shoal of piranhas, but thankfully ones that have chosen a vegetarian diet.

After a viewing of the impressive Marrakech mosque (an invaluable landmark when walking round the city) and stops at the stunning Saadian Tombs and Koranic school Medersa Ben Youssef, it was into the souks.

The souks, or markets, are a central part of life in Morocco. Though not an Arab dominated country, as the majority of Morocco's population comes from the ancient Berber tribe, the traders are well-equipped with Arab-style bargaining skills and persistence, although they go less for the hard sell before you've expressed an interest in their wares.

Marrakech's souks are a must-see, even if you aren't buying (sunglasses are handy to deflect eye contact with hungry salesmen) as the range of stalls and craftsmanship is breathtaking. This is where a guide could really come in handy, to take visitors into the depths of the sectors dominated by metal workers, wool dyers and many more incredibly skilled, old-style workers.

Don't forget to haggle if buying. Stick to your price (at least a third of the trader's first quote) and don't be intimidated.

Dusk in Marrakech means only one thing - Djemaa El Fna Square. The whole city seems to gather here to take in an incredible range of entertainment, including tooth pullers, snake charmer, musicians and Arabic storytellers. Countless stalls sell steaming hot fresh food and a positive vibe hangs over the place.

Doubtless some of what happens there is tourist orientated, but much, such as the storytellers, is steeped in history and in a city that is a tourist magnet the crowd was very much Moroccan. An experience not to be missed.

The following day saw a trip to the Ourika Valley, where, strangely for such a hot country, you can see snow-capped mountains.

This is the region the Berbers originate from, and its easy to see why they settled there. Think lush green valleys at the foot of those stunning peaks. We only got a few hours there. I could have happily spent a few years.

The afternoon was our own, and I wanted a beer. Our beautiful hotel La Mamounia had plenty but was charging steeply for it. No problem, I fancied a walk. After shaking off two guides - one more persistent than the other - I bumped into three fellow thirsty journalists. Off we went, straight into a biblical downpour. We decided to hail a taxi. None would stop, learning the hard way le petit taxis take only three customers. Eventually we got two, our driver gleefully zooming off through the monsoon, unable to see or even understand our instructions, or so we thought. Ten minutes later, we were in the new town outside a bar. Fantastic service, and for less than two pounds. He'd earned his tip. The beer was only 80 pence a bottle as well.

Next day was the trip to Sixties hippy hangout Essaouria, popular with Jimi Hendrix, no less. It's easy to see why. The place is dripping with history but seems totally relaxed about it. A beautifully clean, long beach saw locals mingling happily with tourists, and there didn't seem to be any wannabe guides giving the hard sell anywhere.

After a walk through the town we took a trip through the fish market, where the catch is literally taken out of the sea, cooked, and put on your plate.

Fish of all shapes and sizes are for sale, with traders gathering round to see what had come in, haggling loudly over price. It's like a marine version of the stock market.

The market opens out into a harbour where people swarm everywhere, mending nets and building brightly coloured boats. The place has the feel of a film set, but its real and you are a part of it. Hendrix drew much inspiration from Essaouria, including the idea for his classic Castles In The Sand. It's that sort of place.

Fact file

Richard Edwards travelled with Cadogan Holidays using the scheduled services of GB Airways, a British Airways franchisee running regular flights from Gatwick and Heathrow to Marrakech.

A three-night stay at the five-star-deluxe Palmeraie Golf Palace & Resort, costs from £595 per person (children under 12 cost from £278).

A three-night stay at the five-star-deluxe La Mamounia located in the centre of Marrakech costs from £648 per person (children under 12 cost from £376).

All prices include scheduled flights from Gatwick with British Airways, private taxi transfers and room-only accommodation. The tours can all be booked through Cadogan's handling agents in resort and for more information and reservations, contact Cadogan Holidays on 023 80 828313 or visit the website at www.cadoganholidays.com

Richard travelled to London Kings Cross from York by rail with GNER. For times and prices ring 08457 225225 or go to www.gner.co.uk

Updated: 09:28 Saturday, April 19, 2003