My abiding memory of Greece is ouzo, olive groves, sun-warmed marble ruins drowsing in the heat and poverty - my poverty, that is. I was a penniless student trying to tour the Greek mainland with the help of Pausanias, a Roman travel writer who lived nearly 2,000 years ago and was to Imperial Rome what Baedecker was to the Edwardians.

For food, it was crusty bread, delicious goats' milk cheese, olives and sun-dried tomatoes - discovered, I should point out, long before they became fashionable back here.

I have not been back to Greece since. But passing through St Sampson's Square one day and spotting Mana's Greek and Mediterranean Bistro, the temptation was irresistible.

So it was that, a couple of days later and dreaming of Mediterranean sun and lost youth, Lily and I paid a visit.

Mana's is one of those cheery places visited by large parties of youngish people on a Friday and Saturday night. It's noisy and loud, with plenty of space for long group tables - but none the worse for that.

Walking through the doors is not quite like stepping into one of those little tavernas on Naxos, it has to be said. With its potted green plants, marble-topped tables and jangling zither music, it's more Zorba the Greek than the real thing. But it's about the closest you'll find in York.

Lily and I were given a nice, private table for two in the window looking out over the square. There I settled back with a generous glass of house white wine (£1.85: sadly, they didn't serve Greek retsina by the glass) and Lily an orange juice (£1.35) to study the menu.

There was plenty to choose from, all interestingly Mediterranean yet at the same time different from the more familiar Italian fare. The kreppas, kalamaris and moussakas sprinkling the menu brought back instant memories of sun-warmed ouzo and walking into restaurants to order a Greek salad - the only thing in those days I could afford. This time, I vowed to push the boat out.

For starters, Lily opted for the kalamari - squid rings in flour, deep fried and served with a dip (£4.95). I, having a weakness for anything floury and starchy, went for the kreppa (£3.95), a kind of Greek pancake with a mushroom filling and cheese topping. For the main course, Lily chose the kafto piperato, tender cubes of pork fillet in a sauce of peppers, chopped tomatoes, celery, aubergines and chillies (£9.50). I opted to try that most quintessential of Greek dishes, the moussaka (£7.50).

Being hungry, the wait for our starters was a little longer than we'd have liked - especially since no-one offered us any bread to nibble. When her squid did arrive, however - garnished with a tangy dip, a generous slice of lemon and a side salad - Lily pronounced it delicious: tasty and fried to perfection, crisp on the outside but light inside. The tart dip perked it up beautifully.

My kreppa was less good. The pancake was itself interestingly floury and chewy, but the mushroom filling was a little bland. It was piping hot, however, and satisfyingly substantial.

I was still ravenous - memories of those student days in Greece, no doubt - and made the mistake of ordering a plate of garlic pizza bread to go with a second glass of wine to tide me over until the main courses came.

Sadly, it didn't turn up until we were half way through our mains, by which time I was so full I regretted ordering it.

Lily's pork turned out to have been an excellent choice - the meat tender as promised, and served in a deliciously sour sauce with a hint of spiciness to it. Very, very good, she said, recommending it to friends afterwards.

Again, my own choice was less successful. The tasty lamb mince with potatoes, courgettes and aubergines that formed the heart of the dish was overwhelmed by creamy bechamel sauce, and it was all a little too salty and at the same time slightly watery for my taste.

The biggest disappointment of all, however, was the side vegetables - watery, overcooked potatoes, green beans and carrots.

Nevertheless, the moussaka was again hot and filling - and our cheerful waiter did not mind in the least wrapping up the garlic bread I'd not been able to finish for us to take away.

For dessert, I defied my already full stomach to try an interesting-looking shredded filo pastry with syrup and nuts (£3.25). It was light and crunchy, if a little sweet for my taste, and a good way to finish.

The bill, with a cappuccino (£1.30) for Lily and filter coffee (£1.20, with an offer of a refill) for me, came to a shade over £43, including drinks.

Reasonable value for a meal which had been enjoyable without quite conjuring up any of the real grandeur that was Greece.

Mana's Greek and Mediterranean Bistro, St Sampson's Square, York. Tel 01904 627793.

Steve and Lily visited Mana's on February 7.

Updated: 08:42 Saturday, March 08, 2003