That Irish charm

holiday to remember.

PEOPLE can often be heard saying how much they would like to visit Ireland, but never have. I used to be one of them, and, until two-and-a-half years ago, the closest I had got was west Wales.

Then, after a chance visit to Dublin, I was hooked.

I've been four times since, and with a few pre-Christmas days off, my girlfriend Louise and I couldn't wait to cross the Irish Sea again.

Wanting to clear our minds of all things English and work, we chose a rural part of County Donegal called Gweedore.

This place really is in the middle of nowhere. And yet it is one of the most beautiful nowheres anyone's eye will ever see.

The outward journey was made by car, and after driving off the Stenaline fast ferry in Belfast, a three-hour journey lay ahead.

Our destination was An Teach Ban, or The White House, a great bed and breakfast in the town of Bunbeg, run by flamboyant and funny ex-Selby residents Paul and Linda McGill.

Ulsterman Paul, and Linda, who is originally from Honduras, Central America, set up home in Donegal more than ten years ago.

No strangers come to An Teach Ban, they say, only friends they haven't met yet.

But first we had to get there. The route is easy enough, straight through the north via Derry, on to border town Letterkenny and then to Bunbeg on the stunning mountain road.

This gives visitors to that corner of Ireland their first glimpse of Mount Errigal. Sitting proudly on the skyline, the peak seems to stay in view wherever you go, and is the perfect backdrop to a stunning county.

What was left of day one was taken up with a stroll around the traditional-style Bunbeg harbour, a good meal and a few glasses of the gorgeous local Guinness.

Next day, after one of Linda's brilliant breakfasts, we headed to the nearby Glenveagh National Park. The visitor centre was shut, but all we needed was the information board recommending a range of walks.

We chose the Nature Trail, the shortest and easiest. The path leads through beautiful woodland, hills and bogland, is long enough for a decent stroll but not so long you're wiped out for the day at the end.

From there, we made the short trip down a rickety road to Ards Friary, now inhabited by nuns instead of monks. It was a freezing cold but gloriously bright day, and the sunset over the lake was one of the sights of the trip.

Monday nights in Bunbeg mean only one thing - the session.

Every Monday for years, classic Irish pub Teach Hudi Beag has seen musicians from across the region gather to play guitars, fiddles and drums to a packed and highly atmospheric pub.

After a few Guinnesses and a civilised late last orders, we left for bed happy.

A common mistake - I made it myself - is that Ulster is another name for the six counties of the north of Ireland.

In fact, it is the six plus counties Donegal, Monaghan and Cavan.

Not so mistaken is the belief it rains a lot in Ireland. It does, but the more laid-back approach to life and the fact people don't talk about it constantly makes it less noticeable.

So when the sun shines, the Irish get out and make the most of it. Waking up to another stunningly sunny, though freezing, day, we went to join them.

Bunbeg sits right next to the Atlantic, with An Teach Ban less than ten minutes walk from the beach.

Head coastwards and you soon reach the rolling sand dunes. We spent most of the day walking along the dunes, on to and off the beach and in and out of secluded coves.

The main part of the beach, known as Magherahlogher Beach, has been home to a deteriorating shipwreck for at least 20 years.

Locals say the owner brought the vessel in for repairs, never got round to them and the boat has stayed there ever since.

Bunbeg residents aren't in the least bothered by this and accept the boat as a local landmark, while Britons would quickly be on to their councillors, MPs, or firing off angry letters to the local press.

Perhaps this sums up the differences between the two countries.

Louise and I are both food fans and wanted to check out the local eateries. Two places came recommended: the An Chuirt hotel and Danny Minnies restaurant. A tricky choice at first but Danny Minnies was shut that night, so off to An Chuirt we went.

The hotel is less than ten minutes in the car from An Teach Ban, looks stunning and even has its own heritage centre.

The service was quick. A good description of the food would be a-la-carte with a traditional Irish slant to it.

After a fantastic evening we walked to the car park to find the night porter, anticipating our departure, had scraped all the ice off our car's windscreen.

Give that man a pay rise, we both thought.

Our final day was again beautifully sunny, if freezing, so we decided to row a boat around one of Donegal's many lochs.

We drove to Loch Craghy, to find a small problem. It was frozen solid.

Nevermind. My kite was in the back of the car, so we spent an hour flying it above the frozen loch before retiring to the nearest Guinness-house. Normal life seemed very far away.

Factfile

We drove to Bunbeg, via the Stenaline ferry from Stranraer to Belfast.

Take the A1 north to the A66, then cross to the M6 north. Head for, and past, Carlisle, joining the A75 signposted Dumfries. This is a straight run for Stranraer.

Then pick up the Stenaline at Stranraer ferryport. Ring 08705 707070 to book, or 08705 755755 for travel information.

For directions to Bunbeg from Belfast, or to book a room at An Teach Ban, ring Linda or Paul on 003537532359 or email pmcgill@iol.ie

The return trip was by coach and train.

Take the Patrick Gallagher bus from Bunbeg to Belfast. Tel 00353 7531107 for times or reservations.

Ferry from Belfast to Stranraer, details as above, then walk over the road to the railway station to pick up the Scotrail service to Glasgow Central. Ring 08457 550033 for reservations.

Then take the GNER service south to York from Glasgow. Ring 08457 225225 for reservations. Ring 08457 484950 for information on UK train times.

The An Chuirt Hotel can be contacted on 00353 7532900 or go to www.anchuirt-hotel.ie

Updated: 10:23 Saturday, January 11, 2003