Chris Greenwood discovers an unusual place to eat tucked away off Nunnery Lane in York.

WALKING into the historic Bar Convent building just metres from the busy Micklegate Bar junction of Blossom Street and Nunnery Lane is like taking a breath of fresh air.

The stern exterior and narrow entrance to the four-storey Georgian building hides a cool, airy inner atrium above a beautiful mosaic floor, with rooms and corridors opening off to the left and right.

The owners balance the demands of housing the oldest surviving convent in England and the needs of a busy religious community with those of an award-winning small business.

The business side has many modern faces: an unusual conference venue, a thriving bed and breakfast, an interesting museum, and a bustling caf restaurant.

The chapel - used regularly by the Catholic community for prayer, reflection and mass - still retains features of the building's colourful history, coming complete with eight exits and a hidden dome roof, both relics from days of religious persecution.

But it was difficult to imagine such intolerant times when we visited the convent caf on a quiet Monday lunchtime before Christmas for a light lunch.

The small caf, just off the main hall, opens on one side to the enclosed garden at the back of the convent and it was easy enough for us to find a quite corner among the green houseplants and tidy furniture.

The menu offers typical light lunches and caf fare, including sandwiches, baguettes, jacket potatoes and salads, priced between £2.30 and just under £5, while for small snacks and those with a sweet tooth, there are hot and cold drinks, as well as home-made cakes and biscuits.

In the mood for something other than a sandwich or jacket potato, however, we chose more substantial meals from the specials board. Ordering at the till, I opted for a pork stroganoff with celery rice (£5.50) while Catherine decided to try the vegetable lasagne with potato wedges (£4.50).

Still at the counter and clutching an empty tray it seemed churlish not to order something we could take away immediately, so I asked for two filter coffees (£3) and some desserts.

I wanted to pay by debit card, a system that has been working well for me for some time now, but one which raised a worrying eyebrow on the waitress. Clutching my plastic I was taken to a separate office where an older woman took the card and held it up for inspection.

I reassured her that it worked fine, which was tempting fate as it then temporarily refused to swipe, leaving me in a light sweat and trying to work out how many dishes I would have to clean to be allowed to leave.

Thankfully it eventually worked and I carefully signed my clearest signature for years before having it held up to the light again and then being able to return to my table.

Our food arrived quickly. My stroganoff was probably not as the Russian diplomat Mr Stroganoff himself would have enjoyed in the 18th century, with strips of meat in a sour-cream sauce, but it was hot and hearty. The rice didn't match it though, tasting pre-cooked and re-heated without any hint of celery or flavour.

Catherine said her vegetable lasagne was "very cheesy" and it contained good-sized chunks of onion, courgette, tomatoes and celery - perhaps that's where mine went. The potato wedges made it a substantial plate of food which we both agreed was very good value for a city centre caf.

Both plates came with a decorative mixture of green salad leaves, cucumber and tomato which could have done with being prepared closer to the time of consumption as they looked a little dry and unappetising.

Still, with space for a dessert I was presented with a large, crisp tuille basket with raspberries and a mountain of fresh cream, while Cat ate a simple fresh fruit salad of kiwi fruit, grapes, apple and plum. Both sweets were great value at £2.25.

Our bill came to £17.50 which is a good price for a tasty two-course lunch, plus hot drinks, in extremely pleasant surroundings so close to the city centre.

Hungry office workers, visitors to the city or residents looking for a bite to eat at a historic venue could do worse than visit the Bar Convent caf.

The Bar Convent, Blossom Street, York, is open Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 4pm. Phone 01904 643238.

Chris and Catherine visited the Bar Convent caf on Monday, December 9.

Updated: 09:30 Saturday, January 04, 2003