AFTER every popular race day in York you can see hundreds of people wandering the streets of the city. Many duck in and out of takeaways, pubs and restaurants that line the main routes from the Knavesmire to the city centre.

So it was no surprise on Wednesday evening after the Ebor meeting to find that the Sous le Mont, the restaurant under the Mount Royale Hotel in The Mount, had attracted its fair share of race-goers.

This was confirmed when we spotted racing pundit John McCririck sitting with friends at another table wearing one of his trademark hats.

But as we were seated it was also obvious that the Sous le Mont was not the sort of place you just duck into as you pass. It is worthy of a special visit.

For us the burgundy colour scheme created just the right atmosphere, the staff were instantly attentive and friendly and even though we were seated at a small table in the corner away from the garden we were more than happy. The menus were quickly handed to us and I was faced with my first problem - everything looked too good. There was a huge selection of starters, with many of the main courses also offered in starter portions, as well as a fish, vegetarian and meat section.

Janet managed to choose quite quickly but I have never been good at making decisions so resorted to closing my eyes and pointing.

I can recommend the technique because my food was delicious. My home-made fish cake with tartare sauce and lemon came with a salad leaf garnish and was beautifully presented. Chunks of potato, salmon and at least one other fish were packed into a just-crunchy coating. As I thrust my knife into it the most beautiful aroma was released.

Janet chose Cornish mackerel with baby plum tomatoes and lime which also came with a salad garnish. She said the fish was succulent and flavoursome and was complemented well by the tomatoes. We wasted no time in clearing our plates.

The £4.95 for each dish was money well spent.

Next came potato gnocchi with blue cheese, rocket and tomatoes for me and confit duck leg, creamed cabbage and bacon, game chips and red wine jus for Janet.

Game chips, we were told, were just home-made crisps. In the event the small pile of crisps were the only disappointment. Janet said she would have preferred her potatoes roasted. But her duck was tasty and just fell off the bone, the cabbage and bacon was delicious and the jus subtle but a delight.

For me the extremely rich blue cheese sauce was lightened just enough by the tomato slices and generous helping of rocket. The mixture of textures and flavours hit just the right note.

There were side dishes offered on the menu, including mashed potato, vegetables, salads and chips but we were glad we did not bother. The main course portion alone left just enough room for dessert.

The tempting dessert menu included strawberries, ice-creams, chocolate voodoo cake and a cheese selection among others.

But then there was dessert wine, ports, coffees, liqueurs and even a huge list of more than 20 different cigars.

Not being a smoker, and not noticing anyone smoking, I had assumed it was a non-smoking restaurant. Apparently not. If it is quiet you can smoke at your table but if it is busy, and you are

likely to upset someone around you, then the garden is always available.

So to dessert. Again I chose the close-my-eyes-and-point technique to order sticky toffee pudding with custard and Janet chose raspberry brulee. Each dish cost £4.50, and we also ordered coffee.

When my pudding arrived I was at first disappointed to see that the custard was just a decorative swirl. But my doubts were quickly banished by the most deliciously rich, yet light, sponge, covered in a generous amount of syrupy toffee sauce. Bliss.

Janet's brulee was equally good with the crispy sugar topping crackling above a creamy smooth dessert. This was comfort food at its best.

Throughout the meal the staff had buzzed around us clearing, delivering, rearranging tables and answering queries. They were always on hand when needed, but never overpowering.

It was only towards the end of the evening that we realised there had been music playing faintly. The hum of conversation had been enough to create a relaxed atmosphere.

The bill came to £51.60 including a bottle of perfectly palatable house white wine at £9.95, chosen from an extensive wine and champagne list with a wide range of prices.

Fact File:

Food: excellent

Service: friendly

Value: reasonable

Ambience: stylish

Disabled access: No

Sous le Mont Restaurant, Mount Royale Hotel, 119 The Mount, York. Tel 619444.

Updated: 09:14 Saturday, August 24, 2002