Adam Nichols heads to his local curry house and finds a restaurant with a neighbourhood feel

THE lack of eastern extravagance promises good things. York's Indian food market can't be an easy one to get into. For such an ethnically unrepresentative city, the number of curry houses packed into its historic streets is testament to the huge taste for Asian spice.

The fact that Bishopthorpe Road's Lal Quila is busy while taking up an unassuming residence in a street more used to such typically British institutions as bakeries, a DIY shop and a launderette speaks volumes on what to expect.

Its subtle, understated appearance suggests the customers are attracted by word of mouth, a reputation for fine food rather than attention-catching decoration. Many of York's finest Indian restaurants are hidden away like this, with conservative veneers. Although often slightly out of town, they bring in custom through a widespread respect.

Lal Quila is known fondly by the local Clementhorpe and South Bank community, as well as customers from further afield.

Inside, the restaurant is just as unobtrusive. The seemingly obligatory Indian restaurant tropical fish tank bubbles in a corner, the roof features stunning dipped sections draped with ethnic fabric, but other than that it is comfortably understated.

The menu makes up for it. Although there's nothing on it that's strikingly unusual, all the usual favourites are well represented.

We're shown a table right next to the fish tank and watch the inhabitants chewing on plastic foliage while we sip on Kingfisher lager and wait for the starters to arrive - the reasonably priced £2.70 chicken chilli chatt for me, Fish Kofta for my companion Fiona - or so she thinks.

Unfortunately, the only fish the restaurant has are swimming next to us and it is sold out. Fiona orders the vegetable samosa instead, which costs £2.10.

The chatt isn't common on menus, although judging by this one it should be. Cooked in tamarind sauce, it's hot the way a curry should be, but not ridiculously so.

Fiona hides her disappointment at the lack of fish well. The spicy vegetable samosa seems to keep her content.

The restaurant was empty when we arrived. By the time the main courses get to the table, it's full. There aren't many restaurants in York which can claim that on a week night.

The thing that's noticed about Lal Quila is its local feel. The waiters are friendly to all, and have a rapport with some who have clearly become regulars.

I have the methi ghoust chicken, which costs £5.25, with pilau rice. It's generous with the chicken, which is chopped into good-sized chunks, and the flavours are obvious without being overpowering. The only criticism is that the rice could have been warmer.

Fiona's chana chicken, for £6.25, looked to be heavy on the chick peas at the expense of the chicken, and apparently it could have been spicier - although that's very much a matter for individual taste. But both meals were certainly enjoyed, although the portions were so generous neither of us cleared our plates.

The weakness of the meal was the desserts - perhaps not unusually in an Indian restaurant. The fact that the menu had to be asked for, and the request was met with surprise, showed how little importance curry fans put on the final course.

And the choice shows it. It's the usual, uninspiring offerings from the freezer. I opt for something called Suspense, which is vanilla ice-cream covered in almonds. It's far from being anything special, but it's a weakness that certainly doesn't detract from the overall meal.

Customers head to a curry house for a curry, and for that the Lal Quila doesn't disappoint. And, for a total of £30.45, the price is pleasing too.

Fact file:

Food: Varied

Service: Friendly

Value: Good

Ambience: Understated

No disabled access

Lal Quila, 17-19 Bishopthorpe Road, York. 01904 670684.

Updated: 08:46 Saturday, August 03, 2002