DESPERATE times call for desperate measures. After a morning in the company of my wife, Karen, and her sister, Sarah, I was 'chattered' out. An offer to treat them to Sunday lunch may have seemed generous but was really a cunning ploy as they couldn't possibly eat and talk at the same time.

The award-winning Crab And Lobster at Asenby, near Thirsk, had been recommended on several occasions. "A pleasure palace for the taste-buds," was how one friend described it.

The one thing that had put me off was the distance, as on the map it seemed a bit far for Sunday dinner. In fact the journey - via the A59 and up the A1 (M) - took little more than 30 minutes. Getting across York can take longer.

And in any case, the Crab And Lobster isn't just your traditional village pub and it doesn't serve your traditional Sunday dinner.

With its thatched-roof, this pub is a picture postcard on the outside, while inside a treasure trove of quirky bric-a-brac spreads across three rooms, while still maintaining an air of elegance and refinery.

The service was attentive without being fussy, and the wait between each course was perfect too, neither over long nor too short. A nice touch were the big chunks of bread served up with fresh prawns, complete with a tangy basil and orange dip, to munch while we scanned the menus.

I decided to go for the set three-course Sunday lunch menu (£16.50) - it changes regularly - as while it is hard to make a bad job of a traditional roast, it's also difficult to serve up something extra special.

My twice-baked goats cheese and cheddar souffl on a bed of honey and pinenut leaves was, for me, the star of the show - like biting into a dreamy, creamy marshmallow offset perfectly by the crunchy, sharp-tasting pinenut leaves.

The roast ribs of beef and Yorkshire pudding, complete with vegetables, failed to match the standards of the opener but was still as good as I've tasted.

The Yorkshire was superb, the vegetables flavoursome, the roast potatoes crunchy, fluffy and floury. If I were being picky, the slabs of beef tended from too tender to too tough. I'd have settled for somewhere in between.

My dessert of rhubarb and orange crumble with vanilla custard was perfect comfort food. Reassuring and homely but the orange gave it an unusual kick.

Sarah and Karen both ordered - after much umming and ahhing - from the a la carte menu.

For starters, Sarah chose mussels with black beans, spring onions and coriander (£5.95), while Karen went for seared king scallops, bruschetta of brie and pepper served with a sweet chilli creme fraiche (£8.50).

My ploy was working, as "gorgeous" and "fab" were about as much as they could muster, although Sarah later confessed the black beans, spring onions and coriander broth was a meal in itself.

For mains, Karen chose the chicken and basil goats cheese in bacon, garlic mushrooms and parsley potatoes (£13.50), while Sarah went for the roast monkfish, leek and bacon mash, in a prawn, tomato and basil sauce (£15.50).

I was assured each dish tasted as good as they sounded.

"Sublime" and "divine" were as about as much as either could articulate between mouthfuls.

The girls, suitably stuffed and speechless, decided to share a dessert, a hot jaffa souffl with chocolate sauce and chocolate orange ice cream (£4.95). The blissful silent treatment continued.

Having decided against wine, the bill including a couple of soft drinks, a pint of Black Sheep, teas and coffee, complete with delicious home-made fancies, came to a considerable £81.55.

The C&L is not cheap then, but you get what you pay for and the set-menu is particularly good value.

The final twist was being serenaded by a hairy-faced banjo player and his saxophonist pal. It could have been annoying, but it fitted perfectly with the ambience and sense of mischievous fun that lurks beneath the Crab And Lobster, despite its lofty reputation.

And I couldn't help feeling if Mr Banjo and Mr Saxophone were singing for their suppers then they'd probably got the best job in the county.

Crab and Lobster, Asenby, Thirsk.

Tel: 01845 577286

Food: Mostly great

Service: Just right

Value: Pricey but good

Ambience: Refined

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Updated: 16:25 Friday, April 19, 2002