RAISE a glass or three to the Four Alls. Next Wednesday the pub, on Malton Road on the outskirts of York, celebrates its new look with a wine-tasting evening.

It reopened in January after a facelift. The Pubmaster pub was redecorated, and room dividers were installed to make the place feel cosier and to create a non-smoking section at the bar (the restaurant is already non-smoking).

Two children's areas have also been completed.

Licensee Gillian Wiggle says regulars are pleased with the new look. "The feedback we have received from our customers so far has been very positive."

Gillian first worked in hotel catering, then ran the Spotted Cow in Malton for seven years. She moved to the Four Alls three years ago and has just signed up for another three years.

Gillian loves the unique, homely atmosphere there and says she likes to think the pub is nothing like standard pub chains.

"We try to buy our produce locally, and 90 per cent of our food is home-cooked; even the vegetables are steamed to order."

Dishes at the Four Alls include popular favourites such as chilli and moussaka, complemented by more adventurous fare such as Hungarian chicken with red wine and paprika.

Every Thursday is fresh fish night, with grub created from seafood bought that afternoon.

The wine-tasting session, on Wednesday from 7.30pm, reflects the pub's commitment to good quality vino at a reasonable price.

"We haven't got a bottle of wine over £10 on our list, and we sell plenty of wine," said Gillian.

Beer lovers, meanwhile, can tuck into pints of Tetley on draught and Boddingtons on draughtflow.

u MEANWHILE, one of York's most venerable pubs is preparing to open its doors after a ten-day refurb.

The Three Tuns has been a licensed inn for at least 300 years, and the building is older than that. So the redecoration had to be handled with care.

Jenni Wilson, at the helm of the Coppergate pub, is ready to welcome you from opening time on Thursday.

Bar Talk will be popping along to have a nosy - full report to follow.

u THEY'RE going to have to expand York Brewery just to fit in all the trophies.

Two more gongs have winged their way to the Toft Green ale craftsmen this week.

Head brewer Andrew Whalley was delighted to learn that the delicious Centurion's Ghost (ABV 5.4 per cent) has won a medal at the Brewing Industry Awards at Burton-on-Trent in the strong milds, stouts and porters section.

He will not know whether it is gold, silver or bronze until the awards lunch in April. But just to be among the top three, at an event that attracted 638 entrants in total, is a major achievement.

The same beer has also secured silver at the Rotherham Oakwood Beer Festival, which attracted more than 200 real ales from across Yorkshire.

These awards are in addition to the silver medal that Centurion's Ghost Ale was awarded by the Society of Independent Brewers in 1999.

u SHOCK festival news. The Maltings 2002 spring beer festival isn't happening.

The gargling jamboree, usually as much a part of the unfolding year as daffodils, gambolling lambs and hailstorms, is not taking place.

Instead gaffer Shaun Collinge is concentrating all his efforts on a spectacular three-day festival in October, to mark the York pub's tenth anniversary.

Can we wait?

Updated: 12:00 Saturday, February 23, 2002