DESPITE the often wet and windy weather we see in February, I find it a hopeful month. Days are lengthening and the garden is slowly coming to life. We don't see an abundance of flowers - save that until June - but the ones that do open are precious and very much appreciated.

Snowdrops are everywhere. Ours began to push through the soil and covering of dead leaves in early January and we have watched them impatiently to see the first bloom open.

There are two clumps in a bed by the front gate, which my daughter and me pass daily on our way to school and work. They nestle amongst the silvery leaves of Pulmonaria 'Mary Mottram', a perfect combination of cool colours. The pulmonaria will bloom in a few weeks and by April the increased size of the foliage will cover the dying leaves of the snowdrops.

Apart from a pale yellow primula, snowdrops are the only flowers in the front garden but despite this there is plenty of other interest. Dry stems of Clematis alpina 'Francis Rivis' cling on to Amelanchier - an unpromising-looking combination but closer inspections reveals tiny buds along the length of the clematis. These will develop into delicate, light green foliage and white-centred blue flowers, while the amelanchier will carry bunches of white flowers and coppery leaves. With luck, the two will bloom together.

Nearby grows Cornus alba 'Elegantissima', a variegated dogwood with dark red stems. It is not the brightest-stemmed species but this is compensated for by white-edged leaves that are lovely all summer and look particularly effective planted in this semi-shaded spot.

Underneath grows a clump of tall, slim-stemmed daffodils with long, elegant trumpets, and Dicentra spectabilis that come into bloom one after the other and before the cornus foliage reaches maturity.

Coloured-stemmed cornus are usually cut hard back in March to encourage new growth for the following winter but variegated varieties are pruned more lightly by taking out a few of the oldest stems and shortening remaining ones if necessary. This ensures a good display of summer foliage and production of enough new stems for the winter.

Picking up the colour of the cornus are the purple-tinged leaves of Euphorbia amygdaloides 'Purpurea' growing in a shady corner of the bed.

This evergreen plant can't be beaten for year-round colour under trees or in problem areas around the garden and although it can take a season or two to establish, once the roots are down it will need little attention. Sprays of greenish yellow flowers appear in spring, a startling contrast to the dark leaves.

GARDENING QUERY

NIGEL Collinson writes from Sutton-on-the-Forest wanting to know if the eggs and grubs of vine weevils will survive in the frozen compost of containers.

I have to admit that I used to hope the answer would be no, but experience has shown otherwise.

Three weeks or so ago, I partially emptied a large container we have by the front door to remove the last remains of summer bedding and then fill with primulas. I found several fat white grubs. The only thing to do was to rescue the hosta that usually lives there, dispose of all the compost, wash out the pot and fill with fresh compost before putting in the new plants.

Nigel also asks if these pests attack the roots of bulbs such as chionodoxa, muscari and fritillaria. I haven't found damage to pot-grown bulbs so far but this might be because they are usually grown with primula, which nurseryman Chris Brown, from Wigginton, says is a favourite with vine weevil grubs. I have also found they like heuchera.

Vine weevils are difficult to eliminate. The first thing to do if they are found is to remove plants from the compost and, if they can be saved, wash the roots or, if they are too damaged, throw them away with all the compost.

Don't be tempted to spread the compost around the garden or to put it in the compost heap.

To give more protection, a biological control consisting of millions of minute nematodes can be used. This usually has to be bought by mail order and as far as I can remember is best used in warm weather or in a heated greenhouse.

Alternatively, chemically-treated composts are available, which are said to keep vine weevils at bay for 12 months, or proprietary insecticides which work for about six months.

Updated: 13:57 Saturday, February 09, 2002