Lynne MARTIN takes a culinary trip down memory lane

The Tanglewood Inn on Malton Road, York, was once a favourite of mine - although it pains me to admit that must have been about 25 years ago. In those days, it used to rate, for me, alongside other popular places such as the Fauconberg Arms at Coxwold and the Three Cups at Stamford Bridge as the archetypal country pub/restaurant.

It underwent a change of ownership and name in the Eighties when it became the Grey Desire, then a couple of years ago it changed hands again and reverted to its former name.

I was thinking of somewhere to go for a birthday celebration and decided on a trip down memory lane, but I should have done my homework as I hadn't realised until we arrived that the pub was now one of the Brewer's Fayre chain with a nomination for a national child-friendly award to boot.

Now I'm not a great fan of 'chain' pubs after several disappointing experiences with indifferent food. I'm even less a fan of pubs full of children as mine are now grown up, but it was mid evening and all the diners were of the adult variety so we decided to give it a whirl.

Also the dcor was light and welcoming, a distinct contrast to the freezing fog we had driven through.

And there was enough space for everyone.

Off the central bar, where you order and pay for your food, there are several rooms. One is set aside for non-smokers; another is geared to children with a large play area full of toys.

We settled in one of the smaller rooms that had a cosier feel to it and took ages deciding what to order. The menu is quite varied with all the usual favourites plus a touch of Thai, Indian and Italian and lots of cheap and cheerful meals for kids.

Still sceptical, I was pleasantly surprised when our starters arrived. Tess's garlic mushrooms (£2.90) were plentiful and encased in a herby breadcrumbed coat with a garlic mayonnaise dip, Birthday boy's Indian platter (£3.10) had a variety of mini onion bhajees and samosas and dips, my potato skins (£3.05) with cheese and bacon were crisp and savoury and Chris's prawn cocktail (£3.10) was piled high with juicy prawns on a mixed salad.

I was even more pleased with my steak and Boddingtons pie. Lots of tender chunks of beef in a rich savoury gravy - although the pastry could have done with a few more minutes in the oven to brown it a little more. Carrots, broccoli and a pile of chips completed the meal.

The others had steaks of one sort or another. Chris had scampi alongside his (£8.95); Tess enjoyed a 10oz rump (£9.10) with pepper sauce and son Chris took on a mixed grill (£9.95). All were nicely cooked, garnished and presented.

Puddings ranged from hot sticky ones, such as treacle sponge, to ice creams, but only one of our party succumbed to the joys of jam roly poly and custard (£2.75).

We had set out looking for more of a sophisticated restaurant meal rather than a bar meal, but it's funny how sometimes when you get things wrong they turn out all right.

Fact file:

Food: Not too plain, not too fancy

Service: Friendly and helpful

Value: Good

Ambience: Bright and airy

Disabled access available

- The Tanglewood, Malton Road, York. Tel: 01904 468611.

Updated: 08:51 Saturday, January 19, 2002