I had tried booking a table at Caesars - the popular Italian eatery on Goodramgate - before, only to be told they were fully booked. So when we decided it would be a good place to take visiting friends over the festive season, I took the precaution of booking well in advance.

It was a good job I did. Even though it was a Sunday evening, and the night before New Year's Eve to boot, the place was full.

I was rewarded for my diligence in booking early with what must be the best table in the house - set in the deep main window looking out on the Minster. It was a dark, clear, moonlit night, the Minster rimed with frost. Sitting in the warmth of Caesars with that view for a backdrop was something special.

The popular restaurant has recently had a refit and expanded into the building next door, which used to be Tullivers.

The new look is all smart Italianate marble-topped tables and floor, the clean white ceiling studded with spot lighting. Despite the winter chill outside, the busy restaurant, with its friendly waiters, serving counter along the back wall and murmur of contented voices, was intimate, warm and cheerful.

We asked for a jug of water for our guests, I ordered a glass of perfectly-decent medium house white, Lili an orange juice, then we settled down to study the menu.

From a range of hot and cold starters, I opted for the Melanzane alla Siciliana - baked aubergine topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce (£4.95).

Lili went for smoked chicken and mango salad (£5.50). Our guests, Professor Yong Hua Cui and his wife Lu Liu, decided to share a seafood starter (£4.95). No problem about the sharing, our cheerful waiter reassured us.

The main courses included pastas, pizzas, fish dishes and a range of more substantial meals.

I chose the Penne alla Italiana - pasta with chicken, tuna, onions, pepper and mushrooms in a white wine, tomato and cream sauce (£6.50).

Lili opted for the Pizza alla Caesar - pizza with everything, as the menu described it (£6.50).

Professor Cui chose an escalopes of veale main course with a side dish of vegetables (£9.90) and his wife the half roast duckling, also with side vegetables (£10.95).

When the starters arrived, our waiter produced a giant pepper grinder with a grin and a flourish, and asked if we would like some freshly-ground pepper. We all said yes, and he made a wonderful performance out of grinding the pepper over our plates, leaving us with big smiles.

It quickly became clear that Lili had picked the winner, for the starters at least.

My aubergines looked delicious - served piping hot in a mini baking tray and smothered in melted mozzarella - but were a little disappointing. Not only were they so hot as to burn my mouth - meaning I could taste very little - the mozzarella was rubbery.

Lili's salad, by contrast, was delicious: the slivers of chicken tender and tasty, and perfectly complemented by the succulent slices of mango. First class. The Cuis also pronounced themselves very satisfied.

After a short wait, the main courses arrived. This time, I fared much better.

My penne was very good, the various flavours combining well, and just enough tomato in the creamy sauce. A warming, nourishing and satisfying dish that didn't leave me too full.

Lili was equally satisfied with her pizza. I sneaked a mouthful and found myself agreeing: it was fresh, light, piping hot and smothered with every kind of topping conceivable: just how a pizza should be.

The Cuis' dishes were also good. Mrs Liu's duck was beautifully-presented on a flaring plate, the skin crispy, the meat beneath tender and flavoursome.

Professor Cui's veal arrived smothered in a creamy sauce. The big disappointment was the vegetables.

The side dish of salad was excellent and featured traditional salad ingredients as well as delicious slices of fresh mango and avocado. The vegetables, however - boiled potatoes, broccoli and carrots among them - were not up to scratch.

The evening ended well, though. I persuaded my dining companions to try some Italian ice cream and all agreed it was the best part of the meal.

I opted for a strawberry ice cream, the others for fruit salad with ice cream.

Mine arrived in a tall, fluted glass, slivers of fresh strawberry smothered in delicious strawberry-flavoured ice cream and drizzled with strawberry sauce.

My companions' fruit salads were served in wide 'boats', a generous selection of tropical fruits covered with scoops of ice cream and again drizzled with tangy sauce.

A cup of first-rate espresso sealed the evening for me.

The bill for four three-course meals, plus a couple of drinks, came to £67.95 - good value in anyone's book, especially given the incomparable view and cheerful service.

Caesars Pizzeria and Ristorante, 27 Goodramgate, York. Telephone 01904 670914.

Updated: 09:13 Saturday, January 12, 2002