Emma Harrison visits Morocco and sizes up what it means to visit a Muslim country in the wake of September 11

COLOURFUL is an inadequate word to describe Marrakech - every way you turn you encounter a rich aroma of culture.

The markets fill the air with vitality and expectation and no tourist can deny the pull towards the miss-match of vibrant leather and spice stalls.

I took a four-day visit to the city last month, during Ramadan - the Muslim month of fasting.

The trip was organised for 40 British journalists to delve into the country which has been severely affected by the terrorist attacks in the US and the strikes on Afghanistan.

Tourism has dropped by 55 per cent in the past three months because of a fear of travel and because Morocco is a Muslim country.

The country's economy is beginning to suffer. Street sellers make this blatantly clear as they eagerly clamour for any business.

Bartering and a certain amount of hassle is all part of the mystery of a place where price tags are non-existent. But it seemed more exaggerated towards tea-time when the vendors are hungry and many are in need of a cigarette - essentials they have to live without during daylight hours of Ramadan.

We encountered no confrontations about politics, and there were no pro-Taliban supporters lingering in the dark, narrow passageways in wait for us - this is a city trying to make a living and certainly not seeking to frighten off the dribble of visitors it is receiving.

It is in the Medina, the heart of Marrakech, where the excitement and thrill of a bargain sets in. Stiff competition keeps prices low and if you stick firm to your bartering, you can pick up some excellent buys. Unless you are adept at bartering, it's advisable to get a guide to steer you through the narrow lanes, ducking under leather bags and climbing over cattle and workers crouched over their wares.

Back out of the Medina, you can take a fascinating cultural walk around Imperial Marrakech. Amid the stalls are historical remains including the 12th-century Mosquee d' el-Mansour and El Badi palace.

We stayed in the five-star Palmeraie Golf Palace hotel, 20 minutes outside the city. Its luxury was palatial - with the traditional Moroccan mosaics of colourful tiles adorning the walls, ceilings and floor.

When it comes to food, vegetarians will struggle as the Moroccans like their meat, which is presented in a basic way. There's no chicken breasts - but instead half the bird is brought to the table and everyone digs in.

A traditional meal starts with harira, which is a rich soup of meat and chick peas. A selection of salads, sweet carrots and spicy lambs brains will follow possibly with pastilla, a sweet pastry stuffed with pigeon and almonds. This is followed by the main course, a tagine, of meat or fish.

As Morocco is an Islamic country, alcohol is not encouraged, but is always available in restaurants and tourist areas.

I'd recommend two restaurants which our party visited. The first was Chez Ali Fantasia, which mixes the tacky with the traditional - magic carpets, camels, loud music and Moroccan dancing are a real treat. Get dressed up in traditional costumes (which can easily be picked up in the Medina) and soak up the culture.

In contrast, the Yacout is one of the most exclusive restaurants in the centre of Marrakech. Hidden down a dark alley, a door opens into 'old Morocco', where rich carpets and mosaics surround intimate, candlelit tables.

I would recommend spending three or four days in Marrakech and then travel to the coast or up into the mountains.

Taxis can be ordered through your hotel.

If you want some colour, a little sunshine and an insight into the rich Moroccan culture, Marrakech is well worth a visit during the winter months.

It is a city where African and Arab have successfully mixed. It is a grand city - but not without its sleaze and excitement, and finished off by the amazing back-drop of the Atlas mountains.

Fact file

- Emma flew Royal Air Maroc from Heathrow via Casablanca. For reservations, contact 020 7439 4361 or log on to www.royalairmaroc.co.uk

- She travelled with Cadogan Holidays, which specialises in trips to Morocco. Contact 023 8082 8304 for reservations or 0870 036 4532 for a brochure.

- For more information about the country, contact the Moroccan National Tourist Office on 020 7437 0073 or log on to www.tourism-in-morocco.com

- She toured the city with Complete Tours, based in Morocco. For more information about booking a tour, contact Lesley Sanchez, general manager, on lesley@iam.net.ma