Heading West

'BON jewer," said Jack, showing off his newly acquired multi-lingual skills to the little French girl. She giggled and toddled closer, arms outstretched.

Jack, taken aback by her reaction, pressed his nose against the fish tank and groped for his mother's hand. Still the girl advanced, so two-year-old Jack did the gentlemanly thing, and ran off to look for sharks.

French, he was learning, is truly the language of love. Especially when spoken with a Yorkshire accent.

We were far from Yorkshire, in the Sealand aquarium on the beautiful island of Noirmoutier, off the west coast of France. The aquarium was proving to be a huge hit with Jack, little French girls notwithstanding.

We had already seen a fantastic display of aquatic acrobatics, performed by sleek black sea lions. Elsewhere, Jack was entranced by giant turtles the size of Mini Metros, crabs that looked like they could slice through the glass tank with their pincers and fish showing off in dazzling electric blue and orange outfits.

Even if it did not boast the delights of Sealand, Noirmoutier would have been worth the visit. The drive there, over bridge or causeway, is breathtaking; the beach divine. Other attractions include the chateau, the Ocanile water park and the naval museum.

The Vende is great for days out. During our stay, we fell into a happy routine, beginning with a walk in the cool morning sunshine to buy some croissants or pan au chocolate for breakfast, and a bread baton for lunch. After breakfast, Jack and I would boot a beach ball about in the shade of the tall fir trees that dotted our Haven campsite, while Jo packed the picnic. Then it was off to our chosen destination.

We were spoiled for choice. Even given a month, it would have been impossible to visit all the nearby attractions.

At Les Sables D'Olone, we had another wild trip, this time to the Gay Zoo, which wasn't, as the name suggests, a risqu night-spot, but a real zoo full of magnificent beasts including lions, tigers, giraffes and, er, goats.

On another day, we toured the beautiful fishing port of St Gilles Croix de Vie, where the market stalls were piled high with glisteningly-fresh fruits of the sea. And a tour of St Jean de Monts brought us a surreally Gallic experience: music piped through loudspeakers hitched on to the outside of every other building in the town centre.

Every day, as soon as we had walked up an appetite, we indulged in the perfect picnic: fresh French bread, cheese, ham and tomatoes, eaten at one of the hundreds of picnic areas in woodland dotted around the area.

The afternoons were all about the seaside. It took about a half hour walk in the warm sunshine to reach our nearest beach, at St Jean de Monts. The sands are superb, and stretch as far as the eye can see; the clean water of the Atlantic is perfect for paddling.

The Vende's beaches can rival anything offered by the Cote d'Azur, yet are less crowded. Jack loved it, and so did we.

We also spent time relaxing at the campsite. We stayed in a four-berth apartment at Le Bois Dormant, a scrupulously clean, friendly and very well-run Haven site.

Strangely, the apartment actually felt slightly smaller than a mobile home, but it was kitted out with everything we needed: cooker, microwave, shower, loo and sofa bed. Jack took one of the bunk beds. The apartment also had a little front garden with barbecue.

Splashing in the campsite swimming pool was a great way to round off a hot afternoon on the beach. The site included a bar and restaurant, and Haven also offers free clubs for children aged from one to 14-plus. It is a really relaxing family environment.

Getting there takes time. The journey from York to Vende is a long one, made longer in our case by confusing directions in the travel guide (it is better, we ruefully learned, to work out your own route). But if you plan to take your time, the journey can form part of the holiday.

Certainly, Jack enjoyed going on the Brittany Ferry from Portsmouth to Caen, with its shops and delicious fresh food in the restaurant. He still talks about sailing on the big boat.

If you are taking children, make sure you book a cabin. The crossing is six hours, and you need your own space to relax and play games to pass the time.

On the way back, we watched the sun set over the sea through our porthole, and reflected on a fantastic holiday. We will be saying "bon jewer" to the Vende again, I'm sure.

Fact file:

- Lead-in price for a Europa mobile home or apartment, seven nights accommodation at Haven's Le Bois Dormant campsite is £387

- Bookings/brochures number for Haven Europe: 0870 242 7777, or website:www.haveneurope.com, or visit travel agent.

- Haven Europe is the only UK company to own and operate parks in France, including sites in Brittany, Vende, Charente Maritime, Aquitaine and the Languedoc, as well as 36 sites in France, Spain and Italy.

- Brittany Ferries Reservations: 0870 5360 360