ON this occasion Ann was not able to join me so colleague Kate made her debut as a critical snacker.

Last month, J L Hobson wrote to the Press asking how many readers could afford the luxury meals enjoyed by my colleagues? He wondered about the specials at 'two for a fiver'. Although not sampling pub grub (others have cornered that) in response I spotted an express lunch for £4.95 at Caffe Uno in Clifford Street.

The menu was simple: a variety of pasta or pizza. Before making her selection, Kate scanned two other options: the set meal deal for £5.95, which covered most pizzas or pastas with a mixed salad, or for £9.95 the pizza or pasta would qualify for a half bottle of house wine or a dessert with coffee.

After much deliberation, Kate asked for spaghetti alla bolognese while I plumped for penne alla arrabbiata. Alternatives were spaghetti alla pomodora or lasagne.

The pizza menu featured Mexican hot, mushroom, quattro stagioni or giardiniera. Surely an opportunity to brush up your Italian.

Here is a venue priding itself on 'express'. We had hardly ordered before two steaming platefuls arrived. Kate worked skilfully through her portion with the aid of spoon and fork. In conclusion she declared that the spaghetti had been beautifully cooked and not overdone as she usually does it. Maybe there is a commercial opportunity for Italian cookery lessons here!

I was expecting a spicy plateful but was not quite prepared for the highly-seasoned tomato sauce that accompanied the pasta tubes. Not to be beaten, I cleared my plate but was more than grateful for chilled apple juice to drink.

Apart from the decoration, little seems to have changed since this was Russell's, the mecca for cyclists. There is a bright mosaic floor which must be uneven judging by the number of table legs sport-ing a napkin wedge.

So there you are Mr Hobson, two meals for less than a tenner plus the drink.