For some reason, when you think of going out for a meal, it's not usually to the likes of your Hiltons or Moat House Hotels. Perhaps it's the price; perhaps it's the feeling that the restaurants of hotels belonging to large chains are a bit lacking in character. Fine for tourists or holidaymakers, maybe, but not for locals in the know about the really good places to eat.

Whatever the reason, it does feel odd to eat in a smart hotel restaurant when you're not staying there - and even odder when you live only a 15-minute walk away.

When I rang to book a table for two at Tower's Restaurant at the York Hilton, however, the friendly voice on the other end of the line cheerfully assured me that, yes, they were open to non-residents. And the hum of contented voices in the background promised well.

The decor at Tower's is pretty much what you'd expect - pleasant and relaxing in that way that's indefinably associated with smart international hotels. Thick carpeting, modern furniture, minimalist art on the walls, large green potted plants, plenty of designed space. You could be anywhere in the world.

Which is not to knock it. The moment we took our seats at Tower's we felt utterly relaxed and comfortable.

The restaurant was pleasantly full: and the menu nothing if not adventurous. Appetisers included duck and beetroot broth (£3.95), filo parcels of Wensleydale cheese with caramelised red onions (£5.95), and ostrich fillet carpaccio (£10). These were followed by main courses that ranged from roast breast of wood pigeon with shitaki and fois gras (£16.50) to pan-fried crocodile tail (£18.50) and medallions of wild boar (£18). Diners could also choose either the hot buffet at £11.50 or cold buffet at £6.50.

While we pondered, an eager maitre d' arrived to see if we would like drinks. We ordered a glass of house medium white for me, an apple juice for Lili.

So far, so good. But here began the problems. There was a long wait and then the drinks, when they arrived, were wrong - two apple juices, instead of what we had asked for. The waiter apologised, took one away, and promised to bring my wine forthwith. A few minutes later he returned, red-faced, to check which wine I had ordered.

Drinks finally in hand, we ordered our meals - the duck and beetroot broth to start followed by roast breast of pigeon for Lili, the filo parcels followed by caramelised duck breast (£15.95) for me. Neither dish came with vegetables, so it was necessary to order extra side dishes - two portions of mashed potato with chives, recommended by our waiter, and a dish of chargrilled Mediterranean vegetables (£1.50 each).

The starters arrived - a huge, steaming bowl of broth for Lily, a large, crisp filo parcel on a beautifully-flared dish for me. They looked scrumptious - but oddly, we still had no cutlery with which to eat them. That arrived a few seconds later - followed, later still, by an offer of bread rolls. We accepted, then had to ask for butter. None came, until we asked again.

All this confusion was unfortunate because the food, when we finally got around to tasting it, was delicious. Lili declared her duck and beetroot broth - warming, and both sweet and clean - to be one of the best things she'd tasted recently, and we've since made it at home. My filo parcel was no less good - crisp and light, with a lovely, piquant tang of onion and cheese. The only problem with them was the size: each would easily have made a nourishing main course in itself. So delicious were they we were reluctant to leave any - but that didn't leave a lot of room for the rest of the meal.

The main courses, when they arrived, matched the appetisers. Lili's wood pigeon was tender and deliciously gamey, the bed of fried shallots on which it rested the perfect accompaniment. The sauce with my duck was a little sweet for my taste, but I should have known that from the description of the dish as caramelised, so that is no criticism. It was tender and tasty, and the potato and chive mash was every bit as good as our waiter had promised. Even the chargrilled vegetables - which included courgettes, aubergines and sweet peppers - were excellent.

Full to bursting, we had to pass on dessert and coffee, asking simply for the bill instead.

At just over £52 the meal was expensive - perhaps a little too expensive. But it was a very pleasant and relaxing environment in which to spend a couple of hours over a good meal, and the evening was marred really only by the less-than-efficient (though at the same time unfailingly friendly) service.

It wasn't only us who had problems, either. As we were getting up to leave, the maitre d' asked the woman at the next table if she had enjoyed her meal. Yes, very much, she said. Then added: "But the water never came."

Tower's Restaurant, York Hilton Hotel, 1 Tower Street, York. Tel 01904 648111.