I have a nasty feeling I may run out of superlatives in writing about our meal at the Blacksmiths Arms at Hartoft. In the interests of balance, I shall try my best to find something to criticise, but it's not going to be easy.

It was just that good.

Nestling in Rosedale on the southern edge of the North York Moors, not far from Pickering, this restaurant enjoys an ideal location for those wanting to escape the city and indulge in first-class fare surrounded by some of the best scenery our county has to offer.

The rustic decor, including exposed wooden beams and stripped wood tables and chairs, was tastefully done and the interior and table settings in the restaurant - a recently-built extension - were immaculate.

And the menu, like the surroundings, was traditional, but with some nice flourishes. An extensive wine list boasted around 40 selections, priced up to £22. We selected a medium-dry white at £11.55 while struggling to choose from a mouth-watering and varied menu which includes exciting vegetarian options.

My partner, Karin, for starters chose pan-fried mushrooms cooked in a cream and white wine sauce with julienne of leeks and bacon presented in a filo pastry shell (£5.25).

The flavour was brought out to perfection by the bacon and the sauce could not be faulted. I tried a couple of forkfuls of this myself and we agreed they were the tastiest, meatiest mushrooms we had ever eaten.

Only the genteel setting prevented us from licking the plate clean.

I chose the salad of smoked chicken, served on fresh pineapple with salad leaves and mango vinaigrette (£5.95). The presen-tation was eye-catching, the chicken succulent and flavourful and the salad crisp. I have always believed you can tell a lot about a restaurant by the freshness of its cucumber garnish - so often it is dry and tired - and on this dish it was just-cut.

So, one course down and no sign of anything to criticise yet.

Up until this point, the restaurant had been all but empty. Whereas in many eateries you can feel uncomfortable dining alone, it was pleasant having this place virtually to ourselves and it was almost a shame when it started filling up.

Our attention, however, was soon focused on the main courses which appeared in front of us courtesy of the discreet staff without fuss or the fanfare they deserved.

Despite verging on the vegetarian these days, I could not resist the lure of good old-fashioned red meat and chose an 8oz fillet steak served with French-fried onions, button mushrooms and tomato (£15.45). A nice touch was the antique, bone-handled steak knife and fork with which I was armed to deal with it.

Karin, similarly throwing all thoughts of soya-based products aside, had ordered strips of fillet beef, pan-fried with shallots, mushroom and paprika in a cream brandy sauce.

We shared a plate of vegetables comprising manges tout, carrots, a deliciously sweet red cabbage, fennel and potatoes, all were cooked just right.

On my plate was the sole item of the entire meal which failed to sparkle. The mushrooms were a bit bland, a poor cousin of those in the starter. But that was it. Otherwise the main courses were fantastic: well presented, cooked to perfection and just plain tasty.

Still determined to uncover something to shatter the illusion of the perfect meal, we ordered a dessert, feeling certain that we would find the Blacksmiths Arms to have an Achilles heel somewhere on the menu.

It was all in vain, but worth the effort. The sticky toffee and banana pudding with banana ice cream and butterscotch sauce (£3.95) was possibly one of the finest desserts I have ever eaten. Out of this world.

The next time our budget stretches enough to enable us to do so again (the meal cost a pricey - but well worth it - £56.55) we will head back into the moors to continue our search for something to criticise at the Blacksmiths Arms.

Blacksmiths Arms, Hartoft, 01751 417331