YORK gives a good impression of a city that never changes. Many visitors return year after year because of this timeless quality.

Permanence is just a perception, however. Much of our city has existed for centuries, certainly, and some of it was here a millennium and more ago. But York is not a museum piece, and nor would we wish it to be. It is constantly evolving, updating, redefining itself.

Tonight's newspaper is illustrative of this process.

If a former York resident who emigrated a generation ago returned today, they would notice countless differences. Perhaps first among these would be the streetscapes.

Many shops have come and gone in that time. And our feature on page nine recalls the pubs that have long since gone. Regulars at the Pavement Vaults, the neighbouring George Hotel and the Coach and Horses, Jubbergate, once believed their watering hole would be there forever.

These nostalgic pictures might suggest to an outsider that York's licensed trade is dying. Not a bit of it. The new caf-bars, with their multi-million pound revivals of old city buildings, bring the feel of New York to old York. Meanwhile, two outlets opened by York Brewery prove that pubs that serve beer in glasses rather than bottles are still very much in demand.

Our Summer In The City series tonight focuses on another tradition updated. Street entertainers have been a feature of York since the Mystery Plays. But it is unlikely that the city centre has ever enjoyed so vibrant a mix of performers: comedians, mime artists, musicians and stilt walkers are entrancing young and old alike.

The ultimate fusion of ancient and modern is, of course, the Jorvik Centre. When it first opened, this recreation of Viking York altered museums forever. Now, after a £4 million revamp which brought a time machine to Coppergate, it is more popular than ever: 250,000 people have taken the trip in just 18 weeks.

Ancient York is doing a fine job of keeping up with the times.

Updated: 12:32 Friday, August 17, 2001