Hall for one

WHEN the Smiths decided to move house, they knew exactly what they were looking for. Like most families, they wanted enough space so they wouldn't feel like they were living on top of each other. And they wanted plenty of bedrooms so guests could stay over easily.

A garden would be nice too, and a light, airy room which could act as a studio for dad Michael, a keen artist.

But most importantly, they needed to find somewhere which could cater for a state-of-the-art kitchen and a large dining room.

You see, the family, who are from Scarborough, weren't just looking for a roof over their heads. They also wanted a home large enough house their son Martel's first restaurant.

After six months scouring England to find a suitable venue, the Smiths stumbled across Gateforth Hall just outside Selby.

The Georgian house was built in 1812 as a hunting lodge for Humphrey Osladderston, who was the Sheriff of Yorkshire.

Over the years, however, much of its original Georgian splendour had been eroded. The building was taken over by Leeds health authority in 1897 and used as a hospital until the 1970s. Latterly it had been a hotel, decorated in a bold and brash style from the Eighties.

The family knew they had their work cut out - but equally they could see the potential of this great building.

Besides turning the hall into a comfortable home, they wanted to create an elegant restaurant which, with chef Martel at the helm, could challenge to be one of the finest in the region.

Although just 22 years old, Martel has already cultivated a considerable culinary CV, working with Malton-born James Martin and most recently Marco Pierre White, arguably Britain's finest chef.

But before Martel could get his teeth into the business of designing menus and dishes to rival the best eateries in Yorkshire and Humberside, he had to embark on a huge make-over project, along with elder sister Zoe, mum Gloria and dad Michael.

"The building had been neglected for years," said Zoe, who manages the restaurant. "We had to spend about six months, working seven days a week to try to get it how we wanted."

Much of the restoration has been carried out by the Smiths themselves - Martel tiled his own kitchen while his father has lovingly decorated the upstairs bedrooms in authentic Georgian colours.

The family reckon they filled 20 skips in stripping the house back to basics.

Renovation revealed some hidden treasures. Best discoveries included three original bedroom fireplaces in working condition and a beautiful oak herringbone parquet floor in the entrance hall, which had been hidden under an old carpet.

Getting the kitchen into shape was a formidable task. With walls which were two feet thick, renovating even the pipework was a challenge in itself. A stainless steel kitchen range was made to order, creating a kitchen befitting an ambitious young chef who seeks to be among the best in the industry.

The dining room of the restaurant - aptly named Restaurant Martel - was painted in a relaxing cream colour, which acts as a backdrop for Michael's colourful paintings.

"The paintings are a point of conversation," says Zoe. "Nobody wants to sit in a room with nothing to look at. A lot of restaurants these days are very minimalist, but you don't get that here."

Upstairs, one wing of the hall features the family rooms. The other wing has five bedrooms, three of which have been redecorated ready to receive guests - paying guests, that is.

The Smiths prefer to think of Gateforth as a restaurant with rooms rather than a hotel.

"The emphasis is firmly on the restaurant," says Zoe. "If you want to stay, it's a secondary thing."

With diners travelling from across the region to savour Martel's cuisine, the rooms are an added attraction, allowing guests to enjoy fine food and wine without the worry of who's going to drive home.

The restaurant has been open for 18 months and has already received a string of accolades.

It was won two AA rosettes for food and was named restaurant of the year by Northside Magazine and Yorkshire Life. Martel has his sights set on a Michelin star - the true stamp of culinary excellence.

He describes his food as 'modern British'.

"English food now absorbs lots of different cultures," says Martel, whose menu changes seasonally and features as much local produce as possible.

His 'signature' dish is the souffl. "There is always a souffl on the a la carte and the lunch menu. It is very popular," says Martel.

An equal sensation, he believes, is his dessert, assiette of chocolate, which comprises vanilla ice cream in a cocoa-flavoured biscuit basket, a hand-made marbled chocolate tower with mousse and cake inside and a small chocolate souffl - a must for all chocoholics.

Highlights from the a la carte menu include cannelloni of smoked chicken, honey roast baby onions and sweetcorn velout and canon of lamb flavoured with cumin and thyme served upon a bed of spiced couscous, fricasse of spring vegetables and tarragon jus.

Prices are at the upper end of the scale, with starters averaging at £8 and main courses at £18. Desserts are £7.50. There is also a lunch menu, priced at £17 for three courses. A room for the night, including continental breakfast, is £85.

Quality and elegance are words which best sum up a visit to Gateforth Hall.

And it's all thanks to the hard work and dedication of the Smith family, who have brought back to life a fine building which they are only too happy to share with the rest of us.

Restaurant Martel, Gateforth Hall, near Monk Fryston, open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and Sunday; open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Closed all day Monday. For reservations, call 01757 228225.