Italian for lively

BRIO. Definition in English: liveliness, vivacity, spirit. In brackets, from the Italian. You will find the definition, this time in Italian and at greater length, as is the operatic Italian way, written in elaborate scribe across the mirrored walls of Harrogate's newest restorante, Brio, in the propitiously named Commercial Street.

Judging by the lively, vivacious spirits inside, it could not better named - and that's just the staff, suave Martino and the small army of waiters whose blue shirts are just that little stitching detail smarter than anything the English ever buy.

Those mirrors make the restaurant look twice as big as it is: which wouldn't be a bad idea, given the popularity accrued by Brio since it opened around three months ago. Then again, no opening had been more keenly awaited, for Brio marks the return to Harrogate of one Gianni Bernardi.

Gianni? Didn't he run Gianni's, the Italian that grew like topsy at the bottom of Cheltenham Crescent? Yes, the Italian with the zest, zest, zest sold out to the Est, Est, Est chain a few years ago when one condition was that he should stay out of town for at least a year, not under a banishment order like Romeo, but as a gentlemanly way of letting the newcomer make its new mark.

Gianni had first come to Britain in the 1970s to be maitre'd at the Flying Pizza, still the flashiest Italian pizzeria in Leeds, and he returned to West Yorkshire's business capital to open his first Brio in Great George Street.

And now there are two, although there is no word yet if there are future plans for a Brio trio. With the Harrogate renaissance of Gianni comes not only the old Gianni's staff - where have they been in the interim?! - but also such Gianni's favourites as the best zucchini fritti in Yorkshire (crisply fried courgettes at £1.95). So good they are, in fact, that coupled with all main courses being served with baby roast potatoes flavoured with rosemary and rock salt, there is no need for legumi del giorno, as dining partners Tom and Caroline and Italian-eyed wife Wilma predicted. Indeed the veg of the day was one of only two disappointments: the floppy mange tout and carrot shards struggling for air in too much butter. Disappointment number two can wait.

First up, having taken in the new Brio look - circular ash tables with elbow room, purple-trim seats, blue water glasses, a light slate floor, clientele aged 20 and 70, plenty more waiting by the bar - the menu-perusal reveals Gianni has banished all things pizza and increased the fish and meat selection. Bravo, Brio.

Montepulciano D'Abruzzo, an Italian red at £10.75, was Tom's recommendation, three times over as it happened. What full and fruity accompaniment it was to Wilma's chargrilled asparagus with yoghurt and tarragon dressing (£5.25, soft and succulent), Caroline's mozzarella and avocado salad (£4.75, good olives); Tom's regular antipasti, Gamberoni e fagioli, pan-fried king prawns caught in bed with borlotti beans (£6.95, a king dish indeed) and my deep-fried mozzarella and blue cheese stuffed mushrooms in a tomato and pesto sauce (£4.80, not pretty, but looks aren't everything).

In a case of veal meat again, Tom was not dissuaded from his favourite Nodino di vitello, the loin of veal responding sweetly to the advances of sage and wine and sauted spinach (£13.90). Caroline's pasta, Tortellini with spinach and ricotta cheese (£6.25) warranted its place on the special guest appearance list; Wilma's skewered tiger prawns (£13.95) were crustaceous heaven; my calves' liver with pancetta and cabbage (£12.50) in the pink of good health.

Back to disappointment numero duo. Italians go well with scooters, shades and coffee (double espresso £1.40) but not often with puddings, except for ice cream. Sure enough my sticky chocolate pudding (£3.65) came unstuck on a dearth of moisture. Tom, however, hadn't put a foot wrong all night, and his grilled warmed Mediterranean fruits, sugar-glazed with mascarpone (£3.75), had me eating my words. The girls played safe with Italian cheeses (£3.85): safe but not sorry.

All in all, £142.65 for four, including service as reliable as a Wimbledon ball boy. Oh, and more good news, unlike Gianni's, Brio does take bookings.

Brio Restorante, 44 Commercial Street, Harrogate. Tel 01423 529933.

Food: Glorious food

Service: Smart

Value: Definitely

Ambience: Lively

Disabled access: Yes

30/06/01