The sands of time took RICHARD JOHNS back to his childhood, as he discovered when he spent a week in a cottage in Northumberland.

IT was like a second childhood for me. Playing in the sand, with not a care in the world. As I ran along Ross Beach, scores of redshank scattered in my path, and the heads of two seals bobbed up from beneath the waves.

The expressions on their faces said it all: "Who's the idiot in the silly shorts?"

Ahead of me two foxes ran off into the dunes and chubby eider ducks bobbed on the North Sea swell.

I'd been told that Ross was a special place and, as Deb and I stood on the soft white beach, we could understand why.

To the south, across the glistening white sands of Ross Back Sands, we could see the magnificent red sandstone ramparts of Bamburgh Castle, with its Norman keep dominating the skyline.

To the north, beyond the 80-foot pillars of the navigation beacons at Guile Point, was the majestic silhouette of Lindisfarne Castle, perched aloft historic Holy Island. And out to the east, the low-lying rocky outcrops of the Farne Islands.

We were staying at Dovecot Cottage, one of a group of eight at Outchester Manor Farm, about half-a-mile inland from Budle Bay, the old 13th century port for Bamburgh.

The English Tourism Council four-star cottage was top notch with quality furnishings and all mod cons, including dishwasher and tumble drier. French windows opened on to a patio area with picnic table and enclosed lawned garden. There was also an excellently-equipped children's play area on site.

It was a real home-from-home. Somewhere you looked forward to returning to after a day out in the fresh Northumbrian air.

There are so many places to see in the area, and a boat trip out to the Farne Islands is a must. We boarded the MV Glad Tidings IV at Seahouses for our three-hour voyage to the bird sanctuary at Inner Farne.

Arctic terns dive-bombed the waters around our boat and the penguin-like guillemots flapped frantically as they scampered to take-off from the choppy surface of the North Sea. There were plenty of puffins to keep us amused, and grey seals basked on the black rocks.

On Inner Farne we had to tread carefully to avoid doing a bad turn to the scores of Arctic terns building their nests on the ground.

On the cliff edge we got close to the nesting sites of beautifully metallic-green shags and pretty kittiwakes.

Back at Seahouses we slaked our thirsts in The Old Ship Hotel. The bar is full of marvellous maritime memorabilia and is an escape from the pall of salt & vinegar which hangs in the air over the port.

But you would be hard-pressed to find a chippie on Holy Island.

Reached by a causeway which is lost to the sea twice a day (check tide tables for crossing times), the Thousand Acre Isle of Lindisfarne is a magical place and a destination of Christian pilgrims for a thousand years.

We explored what must be one of the cosiest castles in the country, and there is a three-mile nature trail on this National Nature Reserve.

There are plenty of walks along the magnificent coastline.

We walked the stretch from Bamburgh to beautiful Beadnell, with its pretty little port and sandy bay.

Another superb stroll is from quaint Low Newton-by-the-Sea, along the sweep of Embleton Bay, to Dunstanburgh Castle. The atmospheric ruins of this ancient stronghold stick out like rotten teeth on the Northumberland skyline.

Smoke seeped through the tiled roofs of the curing houses at Craster, but we arrived too late to sample the famous kippers at Robson's Restaurant in this small fishing village.

But no need to worry. Back at our cottage there was a freezer food service offering superb locally-made fare.

The abiding memory of Northumberland is of its incredibly empty beaches. The wide open expanses of golden sand must be difficult to surpass.

Next time I'll take my bucket and spade.

Fact file:

Holiday contact:

Outchester & Ross Farm Cottages

Telephone: (01668) 213336

Website: www.rosscottages.co.uk

Email: enquiry@rosscottages.co.uk

Useful addresses

Northumbria Tourist Board

Aykley Heads,

Durham DH1 5UX

Tel 0191 375 3000.

Fax 0191 386 0899

Email: enquiries@ntb.org.uk

Website: www.ntb.org.uk

For general information on Northumbria call the Great North Number on 0906 683 3000. This number operates Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and is a premium rate number, charged at 25p per minute (calls may be recorded).