Paintings, playgrounds and even parrots - Harewood House has got the lot. Mike Laycock reports.

We had barely got out of the car before our daughter was haring off across the lawns. She had spotted the adventure playground - and this was more than the three swings and slide of your average park. Chutes, ramps, tunnels and swinging ropes - you name it, this playground seemed to have it.

The days when a visit to a stately home meant boredom for kids have long gone. We were visiting Harewood House near Leeds, which is one of the great treasure houses of the north but also one where children and their endless energies are fully catered for.

The only problem was tearing my daughter away from the playground in time for us to explore the rest of the grounds and house. We were feeling thirsty and decided to wander down to the huge courtyard, where we sat in the sunshine and ate large chocolate muffins accompanied by lemonade and coke.

Then it was time to go and visit the house, knowing there would be something different to see compared to our last visit of a couple of years ago. Harewood mounts new exhibitions every year.

This time, there were several to see. A Private View involved paintings from the private collection of the Earl and Countess of Harewood, ranging from historic portraits to 20th century art. Heirs And Graces involved portrait miniatures from both Harewood and the Royal Collection, featuring the Lascelles family over the centuries. Gwen John, A Life In The Shadows, featured paintings and drawings from an artist I personally had never heard of but who is reputedly one of the 20th century's finest.

Of course, the house also has fine furnishings by Chippendale, including a magnificent State Bedroom which was only recently restored to its former glory with the help of a lottery grant.

By now, our daughter had really seen enough of art and furniture, and was desperate to pay a visit to the bird garden with its toucans, parrots, waterfowl, owls and flamingos. They were interesting, but the highlight for us was seeing the endlessly amusing penguins in their pool, particularly the underwater view through a glass window.

If you visit the bird garden at 2pm, you can see the penguins being fed.

We were running short of time by now, so we were unable to take a boat trip across Harewood Lake or visit the rock garden with its cascade and stepping stones, or the woodland garden, walled garden and terrace gallery with its contemporary art exhibition. Not to mention all the Porsches being shown off by proud members of a Porsche club on the lawn in front of the house. We shall have to come again - and get there earlier next time.

Fact file

Harewood House, Harewood.

To get there: Take A64 to Tadcaster, then A659 via Boston Spa and Collingham to Harewood.

Opening times: Daily 10am to 6pm, but note: House closes doors at 4pm, last admission to grounds at 4.30pm.

Admission: House and grounds: adults £8, senior citizens £7, children £5, under fives free. Family ticket: £28. For grounds only: £6.25 adults, £3.50 children or £19 family ticket.

Further information: Telephone 01132 181010 or online at: www.harewood.org.