AFTER a string of less-than-memorable meals in York's restaurants we had started to despair. With the exception of visits to some of the city's more pricey establishments, our last few dining out experiences had left a nasty taste in the mouth. The cooking, the service, the surroundings - or in some cases a combination of all three - had made us wish we had just stayed at home and rustled up something ourselves.

But fortunately we visited La Romantica in Goodramgate before throwing in the towel, and our faith in York's mid-price range eateries has been restored.

The decor is fairly unremarkable but lets you know beyond any doubt you are in an Italian restaurant - Roman busts and a tricolor interiors scheme. In contrast to the uncluttered iciness of many newer places, it is cosy, relaxing and, well, romantic, with oil lamps on each table.

And the almost dangerously sloping floor, which runs downhill from the entrance to the front windows, is quaint.

The menu is impressive and boasts not just your run-of-the-mill pizzas and pastas but Mediterranean variations on steak, chicken, fish, liver and lamb dishes.

The starters were first class. I plumped for whitebait deep fried in crispy breadcrumbs, served on a fresh salad with a mayonnaise dip (£4.25). Normally the idea of eating an entire fish - head, guts and all - would turn my stomach, but these were the size of your little finger, oddly cute and strangely fun to eat, as well as being extremely tasty.

My partner, Karin, was well impressed with her starter of mushrooms baked in cream and garlic (£3.80). She loves her garlic, and this dish had it in abundance.

The momentum continued with the main courses. My limone chicken, cooked in cream with lemon, white wine and garlic (£9.95) was succulent and presented excellently. It was served with potatoes, green beans, carrots and broccoli which were, if I had to moan, a bit overdone, but then I do like my veg crunchy and virtually raw.

Karin's quattro stagioni pizza, topped with Parma ham, salami, onions, peppers and olives (£5.95) was prepared and served in the authentic Italian style - uncut - and was again rated highly.

I just about had room for a very tasty lemon sorbet for dessert, but Karin had to face the disappointment of ordering tiramisu just seconds after the last piece had been sold to a diner at another table.

As we have both recently kicked the nicotine habit - and there's no one more self-righteous than a recent convert to healthy living - we were delighted to find not a hint of smoke in the air. The staff do their best to separate non-smokers from those who insist on pursuing that filthy habit, creating a much better eating environment.

And the background music, well that was for me the best I have heard in any restaurant in York, or anywhere else for that matter. While this will mean absolutely nothing to most readers, it featured chilled-out beats from the likes of Enigma, Bjork and The Beloved. What a refreshing change from pan pipes classics or songs from the Old Country.

The service was also ideal; discreet yet attentive and the waitress was on the whole there when we wanted her. And she actually left the big black pepper mill at the table, which I wish more restaurants would do.

All in all, a cracking meal. The bill, with beer and bottled water, came to £32.15.

I just hope our next meal in the city lives up to this one.

Arrive at La Romantica before 7.30pm and you can bring your own wine - there is no corkage fee - and choose any pizza or pasta for £4.95.

La Romantica, Goodramgate, York. Telephone: 01904 636236