TRICKSTER'S Lane is the newly-opened eatery in Fossgate, so called because that was the nickname of the street in Victorian times. According to French owner Eric Verdue, 'Trickster's Lane' was once full of prostitutes 'turning tricks'.

But today, Fossgate is frequented by a different sort of ladies of the night: those like me in search of fine food.

The opening of Trickster's Lane boosts further the reputation of Fossgate/Walmgate as York's new eating-out Mecca. Today there are almost as many restaurants here as furniture shops.

Indeed, Trickster's Lane was once a carpet store. It is now a relaxed French-style brasserie, with rustic tables and chairs, soft lighting and thankfully not a hint of boudoir chic, save the rather tasteful murals of women of dubious morals flouncing over the walls.

A formidable team is behind the new venture. Eric Verdue is the former front of house supremo at the celebrated Blue Bicycle. He's been joined by former Blue Bicycle head chef John Griffiths and Frankie Conroy, of Frankie C's bistro in Walmgate. Joining John in the open-plan kitchen is Kevin Goy, another ex-Blue Bicycle chef.

With such culinary credentials hopes must be high for Trickster's Lane. And deservedly so, if our experience is anything to go by.

On arrival, myself and three guests were shown to some comfy seats near the bar, where we ordered drinks and studied the menu. There were also specials available.

The emphasis is on fish and fans of the Blue Bicycle will recognise chef John's stamp - my main course of crispy seabass with a sweet chilli sauce was an exact replica of a meal I'd eaten at the Blue Bicycle last October.

At our table, another BB trait welcomed us: a basket of fresh bread from the city's finest Italian baker, Via Vechia in Shambles.

Our starters quickly arrived: scallops, two soups and braised shallots with parma ham and parmesan shavings.

The chicken and vegetable broth (£3.50) was served in flying saucer-sized bowls, the neat vegetables and meat pieces floating in a clear, steaming-hot liquid. It was a light yet warming starter, packed full of lovely chicken flavours that really couldn't be bettered.

The scallops (£4.95) were served with a sauce vierge: a tangy mix of lemon juice, basil and coriander seeds which gave the perfectly-cooked, impossibly-soft scallops a welcome zing.

Envious eyes fell upon my shallots starter (£4.50). The braised baby onions were silkily soft and deliciously sweet and the salty and more substantial parma ham proved an excellent counter point, while the waxy cheese added an extra taste dimension. Thoroughly recommended.

After much deliberation, we picked a bottle of Chilean Semillon Chardonnay. Another wise choice: it was bursting with flavour and not too dry, and very good value at £10.90. Our second bottle was a very agreeable Merlot, a house offering and a snip at £9.95.

Fish was the order of the day for our main courses: cod with a crispy gratin and mustard sabayon (£12.50); monkfish tails wrapped in parma ham in a red-wine sauce (£14) and the aforementioned seabass (£13).

The cod was a complete success, the gratin bringing this humble dish to life. The monkfish was not such a hit: nicely cooked but a bit overwhelmed by the saltiness of the parma ham and underwhelmed by the bland sauce, was the verdict. But the seabass was as excellent as it had been at the Blue Bicycle: the fish flakes bright white and falling off the bone and the sauce just the right mix of hot and sweet with a distinct Thai flavour. Unbeatable.

All dishes were served with a simple, but perfectly-cooked selection of veggies: buttered new potatoes, mange tout, carrots and baby corn.

Feeling pretty full, we decided to share desserts: a creme brul (£3.95) and a cheeseboard (£4.50).

The creme brul was as divine as could be, wickedly creamy and smooth with a fine burnt-sugar crunch of a topping - but the bonus was that it was served in a wafer-thin sweet pastry case. Yum.

The cheeseboard featured four Yorkshire cheeses: a Wensleydale, a goat's cheese, a blue and a cheddar-like cheese. When the platter arrived, we wondered if they had misheard us and brought three servings. But no, this was for one, however it could easily satisfy a party of four.

The generosity was in keeping with the large portion sizes in general. Also, there is no extra charge for bread and vegetables, and quite right too in my book.

Our meal worked out at about £28 a head - good value for such a tasty and pleasant experience.

Given the backgrounds of those running Trickster's Lane, it's not surprising that this new restaurant seems like a carbon copy of the much-acclaimed Blue Bicycle.

On our way home, we walked past the very place. Above the bright-blue bike by the entrance door was a blackboard with a message and an arrow pointing to the cycle. It read: 'There is only one Blue Bicycle'.

Not any more there isn't.

Trickster's Lane, Fossgate, York. Telephone: 01904 675576.