Paying respect

THE quiet surprises. Nearby traffic rushes into York on a main road, yet the loudest noise in this tranquil place is the birdsong. And one thing's certain: you won't get a peep from the 122,400 residents.

York Cemetery is among the city's largest open spaces. Its 24 acres teem with wildlife and offer a haven from the rush and bustle of a tourist city. Yet it remains a mystery to many.

With much of the countryside out of bounds, the cemetery offers an alternative urban walk. Its two and a half miles of pathways lead you on a tour of man-made and natural history, with something to catch the eye around every turn.

Some people might be reluctant to view the cemetery as a place of recreation. But its trustees are keen to encourage more people in. On a sunny day it is the perfect spot to take a packed lunch, says warden Hugh Goudge.

As long as walkers are sensitive to their surroundings and leave their dogs (except guide dogs) behind, they will enjoy a very relaxing time in the garden of rest.

A brisk walk around the cemetery would take 45 minutes. But to get the most out of your stay, take your time, and enjoy seeking out the many features hidden in different corners.

It is easy to pass more time than you realise reading the headstones. Some stand out more than others: an elaborate Gothic canopy marks the 1837 grave of Jonathan Gray who, as first chairman of York Cemetery Company, is entitled to a prominent memorial.

This contrasts with the headstone for scrap dealer and vintage car enthusiast Frank Buck, which is decorated with an exact replica of an Austin A95.

The cemetery's other major delight is the wildlife. A survey of the birds who visited the cemetery in 1999 recorded blue tits, bull finches, pied wagtails and wood pigeons. A sparrowhawk has also dropped in.

Among the animal life are squirrels, voles and shrews, as well as a hedgehog grown fat on a constant supply of slugs.

It makes sense to begin your tour at the gatehouse, just off Cemetery Road. From here, head south past flower shop Acorns to the pond. If you are lucky you might still find a frog or two; there is plenty of spawn, some enclosed by a wire-cage "tadpole nursery" to protect the youngsters from hungry mallard.

Keep moving south, and you arrive at the War Memorial. Close by is the grave of another member of the Gray family. Edwin Gray is one of 50 former Lord Mayors of York buried in the cemetery; he was in office twice at the turn of the last century. His telephone number was York 2 and the number plate on his Wolseley read DN1.

Move further into the cemetery and you find the rockery, boasting heather of purple, green and white. Nearby is Lime Avenue. The cemetery is blessed with copious trees; it has the largest collection of eucalyptus trees in the North of England.

Most are found in the "publics", the main area of public and pauper burial in the far north-east corner, where bramble also thrives.

If you keep your eyes really peeled you will spot carvings of an owl and a squirrel in two of the cemetery's trees.

On Lime Avenue you will find an upright headstone topped with a cross. This is the grave of Bombardier Thomas Wilkinson, the first man in York to be awarded the Victoria Cross, for outstanding bravery at the Battle of Sebastopol in 1855.

Imphal Barracks can be clearly seen from the east of the cemetery so it is no surprise that many soldiers are buried here. Survivors of the Charge of the Light Brigade are among them. A civilian couple, killed by the Zeppelin raid on York in 1916, were also interred in the cemetery.

Turn right, then left, and you come upon the herb garden, where everything from curry plant to St John's Wort to witch hazel grows on graves enclosed by a hedge.

Switch northwards, and you will find the fernery, containing all manner of ferns. A pathway then connects you to the Butterfly Walk, which leads you to a circular area in the Victorian cemetery. Two prominent graves in this area belong to Mary Craven, of the famous confectionery business, and William Leak, co-owner of the famous store Leak and Thorpe.

Take time to admire the chapel, built in 1837 and restored by York Cemetery Trust (it is only open by prior arrangement). Then a short walk east brings you back to the gatehouse, refreshed and renewed.

- York Cemetery organises a series of guided walks on Sundays. The next two are Mapping The Cemetery on April 1 and The History of York Cemetery on April 29. For details, call 01904 610578.

Fact file

Distance: Footpaths stretch 2 miles in total

Time: An hour or more

Location: Off Cemetery Road, York

Opening times: 9am-5pm weekdays, 10am-5pm weekends

Car parking: Kent Street car park is nearby

Lavatories: Public lavatories inside the Cemetery

Refreshments: Some sold in Acorns flower shop

More information: Available from the Gatehouse

Difficulty: Easy - grass and stone pathways throughout

Dogs: Barred, except guide dogs

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Directions

1 Start at the gatehouse

2 Turn right, pass the flower shop to the pond

3 Go south then east to the War Memorial

4 East then north to the rockery

5 East, north, east to Lime Avenue

6 South, then east to the Herb Garden

7 North across most of the width of the cemetery to the fernery

8 Take the path to Butterfly Walk

9 Follow the circular paths

10 South, west, south to the chapel

11 Follow the path to the gatehouse and exit.

Click here to view a map of the walk