The hard stuff

TODAY we have a Tarmac treat, five out of our six miles in Farndale are on the black stuff. Normally my boot leather always wears out before the soles, but this soggy winter has forced a change.

However the traffic on this route is so minimal (four cars for me all day), that I'm sure you won't mind. Indeed I think you will be as delighted as I was with this exploration of the rarely-visited upper reaches of the popular valley. We are here pre-daffodils, but if you come in the hectic season it's wise to use the daffodil bus.

The postman drove by and I left the hamlet of Church Houses and set off along Daleside Road, a dead end. From now on we pass a farm or a cottage - Oak House, Ash House, Elm House - about every half a mile. A barn or two are in desperate need of salvation, Tiddlywink Cottage is a peculiar conversion, and there is a sweet and traditional tin shed at Minthorpe Houses.

Hens free range on the road. Dunnocks hop along the sandstone walls and disappear into thorn and broom. Probably hungry sheep charge up their close-cropped pastures as you pass, thinking 'food'. In future one will not see such a density of sheep as the system of 'headage', whereby subsidy is paid per animal, is to be replaced by an acreage payment. By Sonley Wood, you should see a lovely flock of Herdwicks, the Beatrix Potter sheep.

Streams cut down from high ground in gullies, slip under the road, across the pasture and join the meander of trees along the River Dove. The high skyline of the valley flanks was erased by low misty clouds that persisted at about one thousand foot all day. Also persistent was the drizzle.

Once you have done a few miles you will realise that this part of Farndale is as long and as wide as the main body of the valley, but ground is covered quickly until the Tarmac snakes and climbs and, after a last cottage, gives out to track. There is a last bridge, and we take a grassy path through a lovely wood to get to the other side at Spring House which is armoured against the elements by shutters and plastic windows. Noticeable is the quiet, not a hint of road hum. Flowing water sounds uncannily loud.

For the adventurous, I have marked as route option a final and maximum push up the valley, but note this involves a ford crossing and I had to take off my boots - and the water was very cold.

Coming down is the mirror image of going up but easier. You leave the wild rock strewn zones, again there is a periodic interest in the buildings and now you have fine long views down the valley. It only felt like a Tarmac tramp in the last mile, but worth it for sure, and you can ponder for a moment the result if the water authority had got its way in the Sixties and made a reservoir of our walk. The dam was to have been at Church Houses.

Directions:

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Road signed 'Dale End only' (and dead-end) across from pub.

2. Elm Farm (ignore 'Private Road' sign), track between walls for 200 yards, fieldgate, 100 yards.

3 (Or see route option below). Sharp left by wall, 15 yards, gate into wood (footpath sign), Grassy path at 1 o'clock then straightish down through wood, concrete footbridge over River Dove, straight uphill by wall. Wall stile remains (waymarked post), 1 o'clock to new ladderstile.

4 Left to track (gated), becomes road. Left at road junction at main valley and back to Church Houses.

Route Option: Continue on track from No 3. Track turns sharp left, 100 yards, fieldgate on left (ignore substantial stone bridge), path by fallen wall down to rough ford, left to track/path through rough ground, fieldgate into field, grassy track beside wall, fieldgate out, left to track and rejoin main route at ladderstile at No 4 (OS Map shows right of way adjacent and to west of wall but barbed wire fence blocks route).

Fact file:

Distance: Six miles.

Time: Three hours.

General location: Central North York Moors.

Start: Church Houses, Farndale.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Saturday, February 3, 2001.

Road route: From Kirkbymoorside on the A170 via Gillamoor. Daffodil bus in daffodil season.

Car parking: Roadside in and around Church Houses.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: Pub in Church Houses.

Tourist & Public Transport Information: Helmsley TIC 01439 770173.

Map: Based on OS OL26, North York Moors western area.

Terrain: Dead end roads down either side of valley.

Points of interest: Three National Trust open access woods. Info on reservoir plan from Harry Mead's fine new book, A Prospect Of The North York Moors.

Difficulty: Moderate

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Click here to view a map of the walk