IF only every pub were as dependable as The Three Cranes. Amid the fickle fakery of much of the modern licensed trade, it stands defiant, an unchanging symbol of all that is best about the great British boozer.

No pre-distressed wood or chain-store bar menus here. Just friendly, familiar faces pulling friendly, familiar pints.

Little changes in this corner of St Sampson's Square. The Three Cranes boasts what must be York's longest serving barman, Tony Smith.

When he did his first shift, 37 years ago, The Tower picture palace was still showing films in New Street, and you could go for a drink at the Coach and Horses in Jubbergate or The Ship in King's Staith.

The Three Cranes has outlasted both of these and many others. But then it has always had a steady hand on the tiller.

In nearly four decades' service, Tony has only served under three landlords. Tony and Vera Lyle were in charge when he joined. They were followed by Pat and Ellen Hardie.

Then, nearly ten years ago, Barry Sissons and his wife Judy took over. They arrived after running the New Inn at Cliffe, near Selby, for five years.

They love it at The Three Cranes, and Barry hopes to sign another ten-year lease with owners Punch Taverns soon.

"It's just a pub, full stop," said Barry. "It's not a caf bar, it doesn't do food." (If you're hungry you have a choice: nuts or crisps.)

The Three Cranes won long overdue recognition this week when the York Campaign for Real Ale presented it with the Town Pub Of The Season award.

Barry said: "I've never won anything like that before. It's nice to know people recognise the pub's qualities."

In the Camra magazine, the Ouse Boozer, The Three Cranes was said to be "always lively but crucially never rowdy" with "a sociable bunch of customers".

Barry is not totally against change, mind. This week he added Draught Bass to the John Smith's and Tetley always served. If it proves popular he might bring in other beers.

Should he renew his lease, however, he promises no other changes. Memo to Punch Taverns: whatever it takes, get Barry's signature.

-WHEN Bar Talk casts an opinion on a boozer, it can make or break a landlord's business. That's what we fondly imagine, anyhow.

But there is another publication whose views carry more weight than our own.

Any licensee fortunate enough to receive praise from this esteemed tome can be guaranteed success beyond compare for years to come.

So when The Maltings' chip butty made it on to page 22 of Waitrose Food Illustrated, Max and Shaun were happy indeed.

"Chip Butty, £2.20," it read. "Giant Chip butty, £3.

"Why go? A down-to-earth pub which boasts a great selection of local and international beers, where you can order possibly the largest sandwich in the world."

Mr Collinge, open your doors and wait for the customers.

-ON the subject of food, Kennedy's, Little Stonegate, seem to have rather a good little offer on at the moment.

If you find yourself in the pub between Monday and Saturday, between 5pm and 7pm and you are with one other person this is the offer for you.

A crisp ten pound note gets you two meals from a selection of lasagne, spag bol, chicken tikka massala, bangers and mash, veggie burger, and a bottle of the wine of the month.

Not bad at all.

-BAR Talk continues the theme of being Food Talk after being invited to Delrio's for the opening of its antipasto wine bar.

The Micklegate restaurant is branching out by offering a slightly different menu alongside its well-renowned substantial one.

A selection of tapas-style antipasto dishes - grilled aubergines, smoked salmon, meats and, of course, olives - will be available alongside the venue's wide selection of wines.

The launch of the new venture this week, saw baby octopus also among the dishes available, and Bar Talk is happy to recommend the new style of eating to everyone.

- MEMBERS of York Camra are beavering away getting the orders together for some 80 beers for their festival being held in the De Grey Rooms, St Leonard's Place, from 22-24 March. The usual November festival has not been held for the past two years, and ticket sales for the new spring dates for 2001 indicate this could be the most successful event yet.

Friday evening is already sold out and demand is high for all the other sessions. Tickets are still available for Thursday 7 to 11pm, Saturday noon to 4pm and 7 to 11pm. On the Friday lunchtime noon to 4pm session, the admission is £1.50, payable at the door.

The latest information about ticket sales and other beer festival activities can be found on the website: www.yorkcamra.free-online.co.uk. Tickets priced £2 can be purchased from the Maltings, Tap & Spile and the York Beer & Wine Shop or by post from Geoff Henman, 15, Beagle Ridge Drive, York YO24 3JH. Please enclose a SAE and cheque payable to York CAMRA.

-FOLLOWING the sell-out success of York CAMRA's guide to Historic Pubs, the publication has been reprinted. The guide features 23 public houses, 13 in the city and ten from within a radius of twenty miles around York.

It costs £1.50 and is on sale at bookshops, tourist offices and pubs.

Joshua Titley & Dan Beergutstein