A little bit of Linton

DRIVE through Grassington, over the River Wharfe, and within a mile you come to an even prettier place, the little village of Linton. It is improbably pretty, but not at all prettified, and must have hardly changed in centuries.

A plaque on a column on the green reads 'Tribute to Linton-in-Craven on being adjudged the first in the News Chronicle loveliest village in the north contest 1949'. In those days I'm sure the judges would have been just as delighted by the sparkling beck and the packhorse bridge, charmed by the ancestors of the ducks, impressed by the grand frontage of the Fountaines Hospital Chapel, and perhaps softened up by a tipple in the Fountaine Inn.

The village was humming with walkers, the snowdrops were nearly out and I ambled out and took Moor Lane into the countryside. Moor Lane is a good wide track, firm underfoot. Limestone walls on each side are velvet soft with mosses.

An old railway carriage was painted green and looked inhabited, nearby four moles hung by orange binder twine from a gate.

Soon I had left behind the last farm building and was almost alone on the moor, mists swirling over the rough tufty grasses and rushes. At a sheepfold the track loses its companion walls and stone surface and diminishes to a narrow path with railway sleepers over the numerous spring fed rivulets.

After two miles, at some trees, we take an abrupt turn to cross Linton Moor. By now the sun had won its battle with the mists but here at a thousand feet wasn't melting the icy puddles. We climb a little to Hammerton Hill, an outcrop of sandstone. This is the place for a sandwich stop.

I sat back against the sun-warmed rock and took in the landscape, or rather, landscaping. I say this because in the mid distance is the Swinden Limestone Quarry, and they are removing one hill, and making another with the quarry tailings, and successfully grassing over the spoil and planting trees. I won't say it's as lovely as the surrounding country, but the quarry has a certain geometry and they are obviously trying. Beyond and high above is the dramatic skyline of Rylstone Fell adorned with a cross and an obelisk.

Fern freaks might like to check out the handful of little specimens (Woodsias, I think) out of sight in cavities under the rocks. Otherwise the vegetation changes with the geology and there are patches of heather on Blackstone Edge and Dolmire Hill. We take the lower ground between, past a line of grouse butts. There is a good long view of Grassington, its fells dusted with snow.

I had a super walk, and quiet with only a walker or two an hour. Closing on Linton, the booted were in abundance, criss-crossing the village pastures. I did the last mile in the company of a local who recommended the food at the Fountaine Inn. It is No 26 on the 'Inn Way' and was chock-a-block with walkers shovelling down the all day nosh.

Fact file:

Distance: Nearly five miles.

Time: Two or three hours.

General location: Southern and Western Dales National Park.

Start: Linton.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Sunday, January 28, 2001.

Road route: From Grassington over the river, immediately left, then right.

Car parking: Roadside in Linton, limited. Otherwise car park half a mile away, follow sign to Linton Church (£3.50 more than 3 hours).

Lavatories: None in Linton, but by car park near church and waterfall.

Refreshments: Inn at Linton, food 12-9 Mon-Sat, 12-6 Sun.

Tourist & Public Transport Information: Grassington National Park Centre 01756 752774.

Map: Based on OS OL2, Yorkshire Dales southern and western areas.

Terrain: Fairly flat upland grassy moor.

Points of interest: Three bridges, stepping stones and ford in Linton. Transitional geology and vegetation.

Difficulty: Moderate in decent weather.

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Click here to view a map of the walk