Star turn

I HAD been determined to return for a meal after calling in for a pint last year and being intrigued by the blackboard menu. This was not the usual pub-grub-in-a-basket fare. This looked like food of quality and imagination. I also fancied more time in the cosy bar with its beams and real fire.

Then I recently heard that the Star Inn at Harome, near Helmsley, had won the national Dining Pub of the Year award in the 2001 Good Pub Guide, and this was only the latest in a series of gongs.

So with my wife's birthday approaching, I could think of nowhere better to go for a celebration meal. I rang on the Saturday lunchtime to book a table that evening, only to discover we had no chance of dining in the restaurant. It was fully booked all evening. But, said the helpful person at the other end of the line, we could eat in the bar, no problem, if we didn't mind waiting at the bar for a table to come free. The same food was served in the bar as the restaurant, she said.

It was a long and winding road out to Harome from York on a dark and wet winter's night, but at least it was mild: icy patches would make this a nightmare drive.

It was busy but not packed when we arrived, and we found stools by the bar to sip our drinks (a pint of Black Sheep and a white wine) until a table came free in the corner (less than ten minutes after our arrival).

I paid a visit to the loo and there discovered further evidence that I was far from being the first food critic to pay a visit to the Star Inn. Taking pride of place was a framed rave review by a national newspaper that basically said this was just about one of the best pubs you could ever hope to dine in.

Who on earth was I to differ? But I was determined to take a proof-of-the-pudding-is-in-the-eating approach; if I didn't like the grub, I'd say so.

But when we were handed the menu, and scanned our eyes over the additional items on the blackboard, we certainly liked the sound of what was on offer - although we made a quick decision to steer clear of a couple of dishes which included foie gras.

For starters, I ordered pressed terrine of local pheasant and pistachio nuts with cranberry relish and warm toasts for £5.25, while my wife chose freshly steamed mussels in beer and bacon for £5.95. They sounded delicious and they were. The mussels were huge and plentiful, and I gladly helped my wife finish off the plate after having polished off my own dish.

We felt less keen about the official main courses, but some of the starters were available as larger main meals. So I went for a large portion of deep-fried truffled brie with marinaded mushroom salad and flat parsley pesto for £8.95 - somehow forgetting I wasn't actually that keen on the taste of brie! But it had been beautifully cooked. My wife ordered fresh crab salad with herb mayonnaise for £10.95. She adored the crab, and I stole a portion, preferring it to my brie.

I was shunning further alcohol because of driving, although I discovered a leaflet on the bar explaining how Star Inn diners can now avoid such worries. They can spend the night in Harome, in another beautifully thatched building just a short walk down the village main street. The cottage has been acquired by the pub and is available to rent for the night by diners. Perhaps next time...

We had little room left for more food, so just ordered one pudding, choosing caramalised rice pudding with a fruit compot. I've eaten plenty of rice puddings in my lifetime, but never one quite so tasty as this.

The bill came to £40, including drinks, which we reckoned was not bad at all for a delightful evening with good food, helpful, friendly and intelligent service and a relaxed and informal atmosphere. What a star this pub is.

Fact File

Food: Wonderful 5 stars

Service: Friendly 5 stars

Value: Good 4 stars

Ambience: Cosy, relaxed 5 stars

Disabled access: Yes

Star Inn, Main Street, Harome, near Helmsley. Tel 01439 770397.