CHRIS BUXTON uncovers some fine dining at a pub outside York

SOME pubs you just know are going to be right. Friendly, unassuming, good beer, excellent food. And one of the best ways of finding them is by personal recommendation.

We were looking for somewhere to enjoy a late evening meal within striking distance of York that wouldn't be empty on wintry Monday night - particularly as our original destination was very empty, in fact closed, following inundation in the recent floods.

Some friends told us to try the Crown Inn at Great Ouseburn and it was, quite literally, great.

OK, so it's a bit of a drive along the A59 to Green Hammerton and then right along some pretty dark country roads, but once there, the pub is truly welcoming.

It was also pretty busy for a Monday night, with diners able to eat in the cosy bar or in two separate dining areas - with no smoking.

We sat in the bar with a beer and perused the extensive menu, which was supplemented by some pretty mouth-watering offerings on two big blackboards.

Choice was the difficult thing, but we weren't rushed in any way.

I eventually plumped for the deep fried brie in crispy batter as a starter (£3.65), followed by monkfish wrapped in smoked salmon, battered and deep fried with a spicy tomato sauce (a trifle pricey at £14.95).

Lynne deliberated long and hard before choosing the asparagus and brie en croute for starter (£3.95) and then chicken breast stuffed with Toulouse sausage on a tomato and chilli sauce (£10.95).

We had time for another beer before we were ushered into the upper dining area and our starters arrived.

And what starters they were. They should have come with a portion warning.

Two large wedges of cheese nestled among a salad of mixed leaves on a tangy raspberry sauce. Absolutely delicious, but would there be room for my next course?

Lynne's pastry parcel of brie and asparagus sat in a pool of creamy sauce, but she felt there was perhaps too much pastry although the filling was very tasty.

Our mains arrived fairly quickly accompanied by a large dish of fresh cauliflower, carrots and broccoli and a dish of dauphinoise potatoes - we had been offered a choice of mashed, new, chipped or jacket.

The fish was meaty and moist in its jacket of light, crisp batter and the spicy sauce was a welcome change from the usual white wine and cream sauces served with monkfish.

Chicken is a meat that I can either take or leave, but Lynne tucked in with gusto, saying the chicken, spicy sausage and chilli sauce were a great combination for a cold winter's night - or any night for that matter.

The creamy potatoes were divine and we almost cleared the dish. Sadly though, the starters had done for us and we didn't do justice to the veg.

After a much longer interval, we rounded off the meal with a very sticky toffee pudding (£3.95) between us, and a cafetiere of coffee to linger over.

It was an excellent meal served in a warm and welcoming atmosphere but if you go, take a big appetite with you.

Crown Inn, Great Ouseburn, telephone: 01423 330430.

Fact File:

Food: Resturant quality

Service: attentive

Value: Fair

Ambience: Homely

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