In the current anti-French climate, FRANCINE CLEE settles down to a slap-up British feast

It's a truly great British tradition, the Sunday lunch. Say the very words and you're transported to a Dennis Potter world of groaning tables, straining waistbands and Sing Something Simple on Radio Two.

There's something of that feeling about a meal chez Gert & Henry, a bustling restaurant in York's heart.

In this timbered building at the end of Jubbergate in Newgate Market square, Lawrie's eclectic delicatessen once peddled exotic groceries from distant shores.

Now the tantalising scent of gamy cheese and peppery salami has been replaced with the reassuring whiff of solid English fare.

The restaurant is the sort of place that knows its customers inside out and as a result is packed to the rafters with families and older couples contentedly browsing a menu with a firm emphasis on the old favourites of British food.

Cosy tables exude a quiet hum of relaxed chatter against a background of easy listening music.

People here are not dressed to the eyeballs trying to impress each other with their knowledge of fusion cuisine or New World wine; they're dining among old friends.

Gert & Henry's may be as comfortable as your sheepskin slippers. But while it trades on familiarity, it doesn't treat its customers with contempt by trotting out pale old pub grub.

The food is all the sort of stuff the chef could buy fresh as a daisy from the market stalls on his doorstep and there are one or two surprises lurking within that reliable-looking menu.

Over a pint and an acceptable and generous glass of wine, we decided to see how the kitchen tackled that tasty delicacy, pea and ham soup, and the more unusual starter, mussels wrapped in bacon.

Both were packed with gutsy flavour but while my partner pronounced himself well-pleased with his choice, my soup could have done with being a little hotter than lukewarm.

The liver Jon chose for his main course had not been braised into shoe-leather, and the onions they came with were soft and melting.

My shepherd's pie did not come in a microwave-friendly individual portion, and its (real) mashed-potato topping perched on a rich and satisfying gravy.

Best of all, it was accompanied by a sweet pile of red cabbage braised with sultanas to contrast with the meat.

By now I expect you'll be longing to hear about the puddings, and believe me I'd like to tell you.

They all sounded tempting and traditional - lots of steamed stuff with custard and cream - but what you most need to know about Gert & Henry's is that the portions are truly vast. It's as though your mum thinks you look a bit peaky and wants to build you up.

Feeling faint from overindulgence, we decided to skip dessert and rose with difficulty to trundle home and undo those bursting buttons.

Our wallets suffered less than we did from the after-effects of all that food. With two drinks apiece our meal came to exactly £30 - good value in anybody's book.

Restaurant: Gert & Henry

Address: Jubbergate, York

Telephone: 01904 621445

Reviewed: November 6th 1999

Food: Hearty

Value: Outstanding

Service: Friendly

Ambience: Homespun