Standing stones

If you drive ten miles north from Helmsley far into the North York Moors you eventually reach the deeply recessed head of Bransdale, and snuggled in there its hamlet called Cockayne, and you can go no further by road.

So pick a fine day and make an early start for this winter high-level tour round a wonderfully out-of-the-way place. Though we have a few hills and a fair few miles, nearly all is on good track; there is no battling through heather.

Cockayne comprises a church, Bransdale Lodge and some smaller houses, all set elevated on a nab, and shielded by higher woods to the north. The hamlet looks down the valley over National Trust farms kept in traditional style.

The little fields were green, their stone walls white lined with last week's snow, the sun was up, turning frost in the south of the valley to bright mist. A perfect day in fabulous country.

We start with a gated road tarmac warm up to find a steep climb up the west flank of the valley. Cairns mark the way, and on the top, on Bransdale Ridge, Stump Cross, our first ancient stone, marks the crossing of two medieval roads, the Via Magna and the Thurskilsti.

Now we can take a shooters' track that brings us round above the head of Bransdale and affords views over Bilsdale to the twin Easterside and Hawnby Hills. The skyline to the north is under a mile away. Chances are you will see tiny figures moving on it, or standing on a dimple called Round Hill - the highest point in the park.

These are relatively busy places, so I kept to the track and cut across Cockayne Ridge for a change. The valley head is double, it forks, so there are two small becks to ford. This is a place for snow, ice hardened drifts, yet on a January day, midges danced over the streams. Hereabouts you'll see two shapely sandstone rocks like half-size Bridestones, carved with names and dates. Because rock climbers and others haven't bothered them they still have rare and precious toppings of bilberry and heather and adornment of mosses and lichens.

Cockayne Ridge leads us towards Bloworth Crossing where mountain bikers were either pedalling along the smooth, disused railway line into Rosedale or coming my way, south down the rougher stone of the 2000-year old Rudland Rigg track. As well as Bransdale and Farndale, you can see into the top of Westerdale, Fylingdales radar station, and beer drinkers will recognise at a distance The Lion Inn at Blakey.

As before, there are ancient stone signposts, and Cockant Cross is inscribed with a misspelled 'Bransdale' and marks our turn off down into the valley to Cockayne.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

- Take Helmsley road, ignore left fork down to farms (first road fieldgate nearby), second fieldgate on road, 200 yards, path on right up by shale gully (signed bridleway), cairns later on.

- At top Stump Cross (short stump set in square base) and right to track. 100 yards right fork.

- Right fork (left fork leads 100 yards to small quarry and good view), track swings right then down to concrete ford over Hodge Beck. (NB after heavy rain or snow-melt the fords can be bypassed, with effort, by going across heather straight up to the Cleveland Way before Hodge Beck).

- From Hodge Beck, 300 yards to five-way track junction, straight over, ford next beck, uphill.

- Right to Rudland Rigg for one and a half miles.

- Look out for Cockan Cross (like Stump Cross, with 'Farndale and misspelled 'Bransdale' engraved on it). The cross is 75 yards west of Rudland Rigg track, and marks a heather/grass track at one o'clock down hill then contouring.

- Right at track junction, downhill, 25 yards, track (rough) swings left to skirt edge of wood, fieldgate to field, gateway, 11 o'clock to stile/ fieldgate and right to road.

Fact file

Distance: Seven miles.

Time: Three or four hours.

General location: North York Moors, ten miles north of Helmsley.

Start: Cockayne.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way, and tracks through the Bransdale Open Access Area.

Date walked: Sunday, January 14, 2001.

Road route: From Helmsley or Kirkbymoorside, both on A170.

Car parking: Roadside, in Cockayne or on road leading out to Helmsley.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: None.

Tourist and public transport information: Helmsley TIC 01439 770137.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 26 North York Moors Western area.

Terrain: High moorland.

Points of interest: Views far and wide, heather, old stone crosses, tracks ancient and modern.

Difficulty: Moderate in good weather.

Dogs: Suitable, but be very careful during the breeding season of ground nesting birds - March to July.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk

Click here to view a map of the walk