BILL HEARLD has a serious eating experience in a stately setting.

YOU have to be serious to eat at Restaurant Martel. It is an occasion not to be taken lightly. First you have to find this gastronomic oasis in the back country lanes around Selby; then you have to be prepared for the sumptuous surroundings - and pay a handsome price for the privilege.

But once you have overcome these minor hurdles, you will find it an eating experience to be savoured.

The award-winning restaurant has a stately setting in the Georgian Gateforth Hall at Gateforth, somewhere between Selby and Monk Fryston.

The grand entrance steps and pillars are a warning of the splendour beyond in the 1812 hunting lodge and former Second World War hospital.

Huge log fire in the reception area, comfortable lounge for drinks before or after your meal and a high-ceilinged, spacious dining room put you in the mood.

But then you need large walls for all the certificates Restaurant Martel has collected in the 12 months it has been open.

Superchef Martel Smith, who co-owns the restaurant with his sister, Zoe, worked under "chef of the decade" Marco-Pierre White. So far the siblings have earned two AA rosettes for food, Restaurant Martel was voted Northside Magazine's restaurant of the year and is now Yorkshire Life magazine's restaurant of the year.

Martel worked at Marco-Pierre White's top London restaurant, The Oak Room, in 1998.

Oh, and the food - how could I forget?

After a relaxing drink (Merlot is £3.50 a glass) in the lounge, we were shown to our table in an empty dining room - almost 7.30 on a Saturday night, but then it was just after the Selby floods.

Highly attentive, immaculate waiters and waitresses anticipated our every need - one surreptitious shiver from my partner and they offered to raise the heating.

A demi-tasse of cauliflower soup - which gave a whole new meaning to the term 'cup'a'soup' - kept hunger pangs at bay while we waited for the starters.

I went for Ravioli of Duck Confit, (£9.50) a classic dish of duck cooked slowly in its own fat with added spices and honey to take away the too-rich flavour, and a touch of sweet and sour sauce. Mmmm...

Sonia, a born and bred non-meateater, tried Tian of Smoked Salmon (£9.00) with Keta caviar, cucumber and crme fraiche. This consisted of ribbon of salmon, ring-filled and seasoned with lemon and cayenne pepper topped with caviar. The contrasts made the dish an appetising introduction.

We complemented the meal with a bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Marchesini 1998 (£14.00), a beautiful purple fruity wine. If you are celebrating, you can go for a bottle of Dom Perignon 1992 at £95.

Back to the serious business. I ordered Fillet of Lamb (£16.50) with a wild mushroom farce, pomme Anna, mushroom fricassee and jus of thyme. The lamb was steamed to a perfect pink to prevent it shrivelling. The tantalising pomme Anna consisted of Charlotte potatoes sliced, layered and caramelised with rosemary butter.

My guest tucked into Poached Escalope of Turbot (£19.50), with a ravioli of sea-scallops, young vegetables and saffron new potatoes with veloute of grain mustard. It's a classical marriage of turbot poached in its own stock with a mousse of scallop - and mouth-watering at that, she declared.

They were not gut-buster portions but we could not manage desserts despite the temptations of caramelised pear tart, hot pistachio souffl, pyramid of nougat glace or crme brulee 'Granny Smiths', all at £7.50.

It was all beautifully presented, impeccably served and created with classic French styling in Martel's very own 'modern English' interpretation. Which is why his diners are willing to travel, not so much from Selby, but from all parts of Yorkshire.

A few other guests arrived before we'd finished but Martel insists he will not have more than 30 in his 45-seater dining-room because he cannot give them his personal attention.

If you like the loud, bustling, laid-back atmosphere of an Italian restaurant, or the speedy informality of Chinese food, this place is not for you. It feels strictly formal, a gourmets' temple for the worship of food.

Restaurant Martel, Gateforth Hall, near Monk Fryston, North Yorkshire. Tel 01757 228225.

Fact file:

Food: faultless haute cuisine ****

Service: highly attentive ****

Value: worth the price ****

Ambience: formal ***

Disabled access: Wheelchair ramp available on request for main entrance steps. Toilets on same level as lounge and restaurant.