Heaven saint

Chef's CV: Sue Lawrence is a former BBC Masterchef, who used this success to launch a new career as a food writer. She has published eight cookery books - and this new one is a collection of favourite recipes from her native Scotland.

Presentation: This is a lovely book to browse through - full of inviting, colourful pictures and uncluttered text. I found it very user-friendly - each recipe has its own full page, with big print - making it easy to work from in the kitchen. It's a pity that not every recipe has a photograph - I like to be reassured that my efforts have turned out right!

Ingredients: As a Scot, I found this book absolutely fascinating. Sue has done her homework - uncovering traditional recipes from all over Scotland, along with the many stories and anecdotes that accompany them. The focus is on the fresh produce we are famed for - fish, seafood, beef and game and there are three chapters dedicated to puddings. The collection of recipes goes some way to re-dressing the bad press which the Scottish diet receives - and for those who are really interested, she includes a full bibliography and a handy list of contacts, so you can mail order blackpudding from Shetland, smokies from Arbroath or venison from Auchtermuchty.

Recipe chosen: Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup)

Ready, steady, cook: I thought fish soups were difficult to make and would smell out your house - something you don't want when you're having a dinner party! However - this recipe was a delight. It was easy to prepare; the instructions were simple to follow and her recommended timings were spot on, so the smoked haddock did not over cook and turn to rubber. I also took Sue's advice and used standard un-dyed smoked haddock fillets from my local fishmonger - there's no need to get authentic finnan haddock for this dish.

Taste test: The soup was absolutely delicious - creamy and hearty, with the texture of a chunky chowder. I served it at a dinner party with oatcakes and butter, but it would also make a very hearty supper with some delicious, rustic bread. My guests and I definitely had to add some salt, as there is none mentioned in the recipe. This is probably your safest bet, as the saltiness of the fish may be unpredictable.

Verdict? This is a lovely cookery book - which also challenges the myth that Scots eat nothing but a Rab C Nesbitt diet of chips and beer. So, if you like cooking simple, earthy dishes, which rely on fresh ingredients and seasonal products, then it's well worth a look.

Recipe

Cullen Skink

Sue writes: There are many different recipes for Cullen Skink. The one I ate at the Seaforth Hotel in Cullen, made by chef Gareth Eddy, was flavoured with leeks, thyme, mustard and even garlic - delicious, although not exactly traditional. The classic one is made with whole finnan haddock (finnan haddie) but you can use smoked haddock fillets instead - make sure they are un-dyed. Jerusalem artichokes are also wonderful in this soup instead of potatoes.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 finnan haddock of 500g/18oz un-dyed smoked haddock fillets

2 onions, peeled and finely chopped

2 large potatoes (about 600g/1lb) peeled and finely diced

450ml/15fl oz full fat milk

25g/1oz unsalted butter

Double cream and chopped chives

Method

Put the haddock in a large pan with 300ml/10floz of cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for five-ten minutes, until the fish is just cooked (finnan haddock will need a little longer). Remove the fish with a slotted spoon and flake into large chunks (discard the bones if using finnan haddock) then set aside.

Add the onion and potatoes to the pan with plenty of pepper. Pour in some of the milk if the water doesn't cover the vegetables, then cover the pan and cook over a moderate heat for 12 to 15 minutes, until tender. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a potato masher, roughly mash the contents, keeping some of the texture. Add the milk and butter and bring to the boil, then simmer for a couple of minutes. Add the fish and reheat gently for two to three minutes. Season to taste, then serve in warm bowls with a swirl of cream and some chopped chives.