Can't stand Christmas shopping? FRANCINE CLEE took the pain out of the proceedings with a festive trip to Brussels

WHY is it that the thought of Christmas shopping is enough to put you off your mince pies... yet somehow it's always better than the reality ? Stampeding crowds, horizontal sleet, plastic bags severing your knuckles, all to the great sound of Slade.

Things were better for Jimmy Stewart in It's A Wonderful Life... then again, he had a guardian angel.

Scrooge admittedly had it tough at first, but even he got a better "shopping experience" when he eventually nipped out for the turkey.

That mythical street scene of carols, snow and goodwill to all men can sometimes seem like a load of Hollywood hokum.

Don't get me wrong. York certainly has more of the real thing than, say, downtown Loughborough. But for a breath of fresh Yuletide air, you could do a lot worse than Brussels.

It's got stacks of character and sophistication - in fact, it's this year's European City of Culture, so there is more to do than ever.

Step into its Grot Markt, hailed by some as the most beautiful square in the world, and you are surrounded by guildhouses of stunning architectural splendour.

Each built to outdo the next, these elegant skyscrapers stun the onlooker into speechless admiration.

When you've done with gawping, you can wander away past Brussels' most famous and hackneyed emblem, the Mannekin Pis.

When I visited, he was dressed as Santa with his flies undone, but he apparently has an impressive wardrobe including many army uniforms and the football strip of virtually every team in the soccer world.

Take a deep breath and launch yourself into Brussels' rabbit-warren of charming backstreets full of cafes, restaurants and shops. There are smart shops, too, and you could lug home any number of ideal gifts for that awkward relative or friend... if only you could decide between them all.

The city's Christmas markets are rightly famed, and I defy the most curmudgeonly shopper not to feel in the Yuletide spirit after a stroll among the chestnut stalls and gluhwein stands.

If you're stuck for ideas, or even if you're not, you'll sort out most of your female friends by getting them what every girl wants... chocolate.

Brussels is chocolate heaven. The smell often drifts tantalisingly on the air outside smart emporia where you can get staggeringly ornate gift-wrapped confections, or make up your own selections from the tempting display cabinets.

Best of all, you get to try before you buy.

Don't stuff yourself, though, because you'll spoil your dinner, and in Brussels that would be a crime.

Belgium may be the home of chips and mayo, but what struck me most about Brussels was the way it seemed to have the sort of bistros, bars and intimate little restaurants you think you'll find in Paris, but somehow never do.

You might be a bit footsore after wandering round all those shops, but a few minutes looking over a menu, Kir Royale in hand, and all will be right with the world.

Yes, Brussels is great for women shoppers - but don't worry, chaps. I hear they make beer, too.

Fact file

u Francine Clee's visit to Brussels was organised by Travelscene who operate the P&O North Sea Ferries Short Breaks (0208 863 2787).

u Three-night breaks over a weekend at a three-star hotel until December 30 cost from £106 per person, including overnight crossing with reclining seat and transfers from Zeebrugge to Brussels. Four-night breaks cost from £137.

Accomodation: Smart

Food: Fabulous

Value for money: Good

Atmosphere: Festive

Shopping: Sensational