I was quite fascinated when the Rish International Restaurant appeared in York - mainly by the choice of setting for an upmarket eaterie. It must have been quite a feat to turn a tatty, empty shop at the top of Fossgate into a restaurant and create a pleasant ambience.

The decor is very modern with lots of pale wood, chrome and touch of black. I often felt as I passed by that it looked a little austere, but once inside there is a genuine sunny feel, helped along by the friendly and helpful owner who is... Mr Rish.

While we took in our surroundings and browsed the menu we were brought a plate of home-made crusty bread rolls accompanied by a pot of butter and another pot of very moreish home-made sun-dried tomato butter.

A restaurant is only as good as its food and I have to say we thought that at these prices it had better be good.

However, when Chris cracked open his crisp filo pastry parcel to reveal a savoury mix of melting goat's cheese and red onion he said he didn't begrudge the £4.50.

I chose the oriental-style deep-fried fish in a chilli and sesame batter, served on a bed of stir-fried mange tout, onions and red and green peppers and agreed with him.

Monk fish wrapped in Parma ham followed for Chris. The chunks of fish, protected by their crisp coating of ham, were succulent and tender. They came balanced on a bed of spinach and pasta dressed in a delicious creamy sauce with scallops, topped with thin slivers of crispy fried potato.

Keeping with the oriental theme and because I can't resist anything with hoi sin sauce I chose the oven-blackened duck.

The sliced breast had a lovely charred crust and sat upon a heap of tasty noodles and more stir-fried vegetables, topped off with pineapple and plum chutney.

A tower of creamy, rich and very grown up home-made ice cream followed for Chris. I was a little disappointed with my chocolate fudge brownie. The toffee sauce was lovely but the brownie itself was a little dry. I prefer them to be gooey in the middle.

We chose a bottle of the house white, £9.95, to accompany the meal and were more than happy with it. Not so happy though with the £3 charged for a bottle of mineral water.

Mr Rish is very proud of the fact that almost every thing is made on the premises. And so he should be because the food is excellent - if not a little pricey. Our bill for two, including the wine, came to a little over £60.

He has turned a sow's ear into a silk purse and I hope his brave venture succeeds.

u Rish International Restaurant, Fossgate, York. Tel: 01904 622688.

FACT FILE

Food: international

Service: excellent

Value: a bit steep

Ambience: modern

Disabled access: yes