Rain and ruins

AS I type, my yard is whitening with snow. It's too early for this, and I feel like going back to bed. But, for anyone who still fancies a walk, here is a route from Barnard Castle that is serviceable in any but the most extreme conditions, is interesting all year, and doesn't use a lot of energy, so you can have a look round the vibrant northern town as well.

The ladies in Barnard Castle tourist information centre said the weather in Belfast was dreadful and coming our way. I think it had already arrived, tanking down as I scuttled along the main street with hardly a glance at the consecutive antique shops.

A metal footbridge takes us over the River Tees, powerful but clear, though from the debris of sticks piled up on the banks it had been a yard higher. Nowadays the flow is tamed by Cow Green Reservoir.

A good path follows the river, and then is deflected up by a caravan site. From the patch of perched metal boxes you get the first sight of the ornate French-style splendour of Bowes Museum. This is well worth a visit, they have a couple of waterside Canalettos to brighten the dullest day and an amazing life-sized silver mechanical swan that is activated at two and four o'clock every day, and, swans being veggie, eats a silver fish in an act of artistic licence. The real ducks and dippers on the Tees were subdued by the deluge.

Away from the river, the land rises. A few hundred yards of pasture, the curve of a wall or hedge, that's all, but the river is enough, flashing behind the autumn colours of the oaks.

A tributary feeds in and has two stone bridges; the one for infrequent cars is frizzy with maidenhair ferns, two yards away its predecessor for packhorses is painted with lichens. Then the ruins of Egglestone Abbey. There is quite a lot here, nothing like Fountains or Rievaulx because the Premonstratensians (White Monks) were always relatively poor, but a remnant of stone-vaulted roof in the warming house, and other nooks and crannies suffice for a sheltered sandwich stop.

Now the return down the east bank of the river, and a dramatic start from a high castellated bridge over a roaring gorge. You get close to the sound and fury through a nice wood, then the river widens out and smoothes. The best view of the abbey is here. Fairly firm paths take you back to town, and I took the first tempting alley to the main street.

Fact file

Distance: Four miles.

Time: Two hours.

General location: Teesdale, County Durham.

Start: Barnard Castle.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Saturday, October 28, 2000.

Road route: A66 from Scotch Corner.

Car parking: Free long-stay or short-stay £2 for more than four hours.

Lavatories: At short-stay car park.

Refreshments: Cafs and pubs.

Tourist and public transport information: Barnard Castle TIC 01833 690909/630272.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 31, North Pennines.

Terrain: Riverside.

Points of interest: Egglestone Abbey, free. Bowes Museum, open seven days a week, 11 till 5. £3.90, £2.90(concessions). Exhibition of North Country Quilts on until January 7 2001.

Difficulty: Moderate/easy.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Galgate (towards centre), left at T-junction to Horsemarket then keep straight on downhill - Market Place, The Bank, Thorngate.

2. Footbridge over River Tees and left, path to caravan site, 50 yards, right uphill, 100 yards (between numbers 127 and 128), gravel path, right at end, leave site.

3. Stile on left and path contours above wood and river then gently descends.

4. Squeezer to road and left. Road bridge over River Tees.

5. Riverside path on left. Joins track at riverside house, through playing field to edge of town, right at Wesley Terrace, flagged and initially covered alley on left back to town centre.

Click here to view a map of the walk